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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping someone here can help. I located two beautiful doors to use as sliding entry to our living room. On closer inspection, we realized a very incompetent nincompoop had cut about a little over 2" off the top. These doors have leaded glass. I can't imagine what they were thinking. Of course they would have to be painted but I would like to add the wood to the top. The door hangar would have to attach to the original wood frame because the added wood will never be strong enough.
Any thoughts on this? Some of the hangers are around 12".
 

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Most likely they where cut to fit there door opening.
Without a picture not sure how anyone would know what you mean by "hangers".
Using barn door hangers?
If it's a solid wood door you could add a solid wood strip at the top with long screws in counter bored holes.
More work but you could also reframe your opening, unless your trying to use them as a pocket door.
 

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I've done it with minimal tools on utility doors with hinges where looks were not all that important.

For a door to be painted I believe it could be done with a lot of patience and careful work. For real leaded glass on a real wood door, well worth the effort in my mind.

I have no clue what a hanger is. Tlling us might get more and better responses.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Sliding door hardware is like hanging a barn door. They have been customized to accommodate interior doors. The hangar is what is attached to the door and allows the door to slide along a flat track.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hopefully the picture of the doors will be attached. Flea market door.jpg


You can see where they were cut off on the top. What I'm trying to do is build the length on the top....then attach the hangers to the original frame. hanger for sliding door.jpg
 

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If I had to do it I'd be using the 6" long screws really made for building decks into the stiles of the door in the strip need at the top.
Using a Forister bit big enough so the socket will fit, clearance holes in the top piece, and pilot holes in the top of the door will allow the piece to pull down tight and recess the heads of the screws.
I'd also sand the top of the door down to bare wood and add some Tite Bond II wood glue.
Find a real planning mill and you may be able to find some rough cut oak that they could plane to the needed thickness so you could stain and seal instead of painting.
 
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I would be using biscuits, glue and long screws. Since it is going to be painted filler can be used to disguise any imperfections.
 

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NICE looking door ! painting them would be a travesty.

get some nice oak boards. cut to size. predrill and used cabinet mounting screws. glue then screw. then sand and finish match.
 

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Beautiful doors. I would leave them stained.
Would you consider adding to the bottom.
If you added the 2" to the bottom, you could then
cover the patch with a decorative piece of molding.

We did this on our kitchen door; not because we needed it,
just because I wanted to dress the bottom of the door.

If you did this, you could then stain the piece of added
molding that we place on top of the patch.

I could get you a pic of what we did -- if you so desire
to consider this option.

Joann
 

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No way would I be adding to the bottom.
Same fix but it would throw out the visual balance of the door.
 

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You won't be able match the rail and stiles for grain direction, but if the cross hanger is anywhere near the size of the two inches you need , I don't think it would be that noticeable if you keep the color of the doors the same.
 

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Pocket door trim can be made wider to minimize the added wood joint. Barn door track/guide also can be installed behind a trim. As noted, use the side frames of the doors to hang.
 

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As a visual person, I have a hard time following how to install
the door; hanging the door hardware from the side for instance?

If the OP wants to add to the top then I would run a bead on top and
on the bottom of the two inch piece. The part behind the hangers can
be sanded flush to accommodate the hangers.
The beads can be done two ways, one way is to run separate beads,
the other way is to use a router to run the beads.
The beads would mimic the beads around the wood surrounding
the leaded glass.

Then stain to match the door.

We made end tables for our bedroom, this is one
before staining. The drawer has the routed bead on the
top and bottom. It would solve the problem of trying to
make the add on piece not look like an add on.

I have another idea (which would be the easiest for
a novice woodworker) if the OP is interested.
 

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Why am I such a thread killer?
Nobody likes my idea to run a bead both on top
and bottom of the wood patch ( mirroring the trim
around the leaded windows ) to lengthen
the door?

As I previously stated the bead could be routed into
the 2 1/2" patch or could be done separately. Either one
would work in my humble opinion.

I'm not a professional carpenter/cabinet maker, just a woman
with lots of ideas. :wink:
Joann
 

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Beads are good idea, although it can get in the way of the track and trims.

Another idea is for the doors to be on wheels and recessed track.
 

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I did mention to sand the beads flat behind the trim.

Wheels are good too, however, I think the space would be too high
under the door.

Another idea is to add a piece of wood to the bottom -- then on top of the wood
add a brass plate kicker, it would go along with the brass hand plate on the door.

I have one on our front door, I think it's about 6" high.
If two of them were purchased they could be cut in half,
then both sides would be covered with a brass kick plate.

Or, get a cheap metal plate and spray paint it black to match the
black hanging hardware.
 
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