Left cover on air conditioner
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On most newer units there is a high pressure cutout safety switch inside the outdoor unit with a red reset button you need to reset. Can be hard to find and require covers etc to be taken off to get at. I would get a tech to do an annual service, check the freon level etc and reset it.
Yep. Those covers make money for the company that makes them, and for us when they are left on when trying to use the A/c.
Covers Blah!!!!!!! All they do is cause trouble especially when they are put on real nice and tight with all that condensation build up it ruins the innards with moisture. A/C units are like cars, boats, trucks, they belong outside. If I was to put a cover on at all it would be just to cover the top from excess snow and ice.
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looking at it from a positive side
...you blew a fuse in the disconnect box outside with the compressor tripping on HP or internal thermal overload...on the negative side you burnt the condenser fan motor out overloaded...burnt the compressor up windings exploded freon burnt acid...:furious: from the heat.check for 208V at the condenser disconnect.next fall just shut the disconnect off outside..only if you don't have a crank case heater on the compressor lets here back on the findings
...you blew a fuse in the disconnect box outside with the compressor tripping on HP or internal thermal overload...on the negative side you burnt the condenser fan motor out overloaded...burnt the compressor up windings exploded freon burnt acid...:furious: from the heat.check for 208V at the condenser disconnect.next fall just shut the disconnect off outside..only if you don't have a crank case heater on the compressor lets here back on the findingsIf my neighbor had hers covered during Winter, it would not have had over a foot of leaf debris piled inside. Had to take the cover off, access panel on back, and the grid covering the coils to get all of the crud out of it.
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All the metal inside the unit is galvanized so I have never seen one get damaged from "moisture". Cover or tarp some people use needs to be removed early in Spring so water does not sit in the bottom but I have never seen a problem due to having a cover on. Contactor and other parts are exposed to high humidity in places like Florida yr round so the moisture level is not an issue in my experience. On the newer high SEER units they have large fan blades and a load of snow can bend them so covering is a good idea.
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the biggest saving is that the winter snow doesn't melt over the fan blades and all the water drips down and down the fan motor shaft...if you cover the condenser the life of it will be extended.even a plastic garbage can cover with a brick on top it something.you should hear and see what winter melt does to commercial rooftop condensers with 6-12-24 fans when they start for the spring load...and 480Vs ba boom and the building engineers aren't covering squat:wink: in the fall
and the building engineers aren't covering squat:wink: in the fallthe biggest saving is that the winter snow doesn't melt over the fan blades and all the water drips down and down the fan motor shaft...if you cover the condenser the life of it will be extended.even a plastic garbage can cover with a brick on top it something.you should hear and see what winter melt does to commercial rooftop condensers with 6-12-24 fans when they start for the spring load...and 480Vs ba boom
Got lots of old RTUs that have never been covered in their life, and still have the original condenser motors.
You must be talking about those (I'm not allowed to say the phrase) Trane units.
Ha Ha good one Been.
Another two year old post dredged up today
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