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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Another question for the ledger board on the right should I replace that as well? I'm not sure what to do about the joist that will be against that piece. Do I attach it to the ledger on the right somehow or is that ledger not needed?
 

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Naildriver
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Both ledgers need replacing with pressure treated wood, and they need to be either lagged into the band of the house or use Head Loks instead of relying on nails alone. Which way will your joists be running? From the house or parallel to the door wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Both ledgers need replacing with pressure treated wood, and they need to be either lagged into the band of the house or use Head Loks instead of relying on nails alone. Which way will your joists be running? From the house or parallel to the door wall?
I was going to run the joists from the house perpendicular to the longer ledger board, which is why I wasn't sure about what to do with that ledger on the right side
 

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Naildriver
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Depends on how close the last joist is to the right ledger. If adjacent, run Head Loks through it into the original ledger. If there is a space use joist hangers and space it accordingly.
 

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What type of flashing would be ideal with pressure treated wood?



What is victor/vicor?
Sorry. Thanks auto correct. It is a Grace tape product used as flashing. Personally I like the Georgia pacific force field brand which is way more flexible for making sill flashings. Typar is like the Lowe’s or HD brand. All the same idea. And my personal hard learned warning to all is…..if it is hot out, when you pull the backing off, it will stick to whatever it touches pretty much instantly, not the least of which is itself….and once it sticks to itself it is NOT pulling apart…..ever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks everyone I am going to fully finish my planning and probably post it on these forums for critique in the near future. Again thanks for the all the information from everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hi guys another question related to the ledger board. I decided I want to go 12' against the house but the ledger is 10' what do I need to do to get the extra 2'? Do I attach a longer ledger board that extends off the house and does it need to be supported?
 

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retired framer
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Hi guys another question related to the ledger board. I decided I want to go 12' against the house but the ledger is 10' what do I need to do to get the extra 2'? Do I attach a longer ledger board that extends off the house and does it need to be supported?
It might depend on the load you are going to attach out at the end , do a sketch of the deck with the floor joists so we can see what you have in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Sorry if this drawing is very amateur please let me know if I've messed anything up.
I was planning on running 2x10x16 3ply beams for the beams which would be max length.
I'm not too sure how I should space the posts. The posts don't need to be located underneath a joist correct?
Right now my spacing that I drew isn't very consistent.
I'm not sure also what to do with the 10' ledger board do I just extend it 2' off the house or would I need a post for that extra 2'?
As well, I'm not sure what to do with J11 as it will be where the 2' ledger board is. Should I move it over to the right and mess up my spacing a bit?
I'm also not too sure if I need that 2nd beam but the deck is 14' long so I was assuming I'd need it.

TIA

Font Rectangle Line Material property Parallel
 

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retired framer
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Sorry if this drawing is very amateur please let me know if I've messed anything up.
I was planning on running 2x10x16 3ply beams for the beams which would be max length.
I'm not too sure how I should space the posts. The posts don't need to be located underneath a joist correct?
Right now my spacing that I drew isn't very consistent.
I'm not sure also what to do with the 10' ledger board do I just extend it 2' off the house or would I need a post for that extra 2'?
As well, I'm not sure what to do with J11 as it will be where the 2' ledger board is. Should I move it over to the right and mess up my spacing a bit?
I'm also not too sure if I need that 2nd beam but the deck is 14' long so I was assuming I'd need it.

TIA
I made some changes for you and assumed 2x10 joists.
Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Pattern
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I made some changes for you and assumed 2x10 joists.
View attachment 697271
Thank you for this I have some questions below:

For the double ledger how do I attach this? I'm trying to find a youtube video but I can't seem to find one with a double ledger.
What does the "Extend Ledger 2"" mean? Does this mean to extend the 4' ledger so it touches the deck? Also how should I connect that joist to the 4' ledger?
For the 2 beams can I just connect those using a beam connector on the middle footing? As well, does my 1' beam cantilever work here and then just place the last footer in the middle of the other 2 footers?

Thanks a tonne!
 

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retired framer
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Thank you for this I have some questions below:

For the double ledger how do I attach this? I'm trying to find a youtube video but I can't seem to find one with a double ledger.
What does the "Extend Ledger 2"" mean? Does this mean to extend the 4' ledger so it touches the deck? Also how should I connect that joist to the 4' ledger?
For the 2 beams can I just connect those using a beam connector on the middle footing? As well, does my 1' beam cantilever work here and then just place the last footer in the middle of the other 2 footers?

Thanks a tonne!
Yes the double ledger, nail one up and then another and bolt them just like a single with longer bolts.
Yes the joist is attached to the end of the ledger with nails thru the joist into the ledger and a corner bracket inside corner.
1 ft cantilever for the ends of the beams is fine and 3" bearing each on the center post is fine.
with the joist 2 ft cantilever the span will be 14 feet 12" on center 2x10s would be enough for a kitchen so plenty for a deck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks again Nealtw just another few questions I have attached an updated sketch.

I have added what you recommended but is it fine for me to just install the double ledger 2" away from that side piece? Which now that I think of it will already be that far away since the existing side ledger is beside it.

For Joist spacing how much does 12" OC matter? For example at J10 if I just put J11 at the edge of the ledger would that be ok even if it was a bit more than 12" or a bit less?

Also should I put another joist after J11 at the start of the next ledger or is that unnecessary?

For J14 and J15 should I double the joists here or can I get away with having just J15 and removed J14? The spacing would be larger than 12" OC here it would probably be 14".

Thanks,
 

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retired framer
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If you replace the siding on the 2 ft wall, I would do the double ledger first a little short so you can do all the flashing on that and down the end of it ans still have roof to put the inside corner down for the siding. So that 2" should be fine for that. That will be different hanger for the joist 2" way,
The one on the right as the nails inside so you can use it right at the end of the ledger, there are a few places you can use those, at the corners.
Rectangle Font Parallel Electric blue Drawing


Normally we do 16"OC, why are you going for 12?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If you replace the siding on the 2 ft wall, I would do the double ledger first a little short so you can do all the flashing on that and down the end of it ans still have roof to put the inside corner down for the siding. So that 2" should be fine for that. That will be different hanger for the joist 2" way,
The one on the right as the nails inside so you can use it right at the end of the ledger, there are a few places you can use those, at the corners.
View attachment 697306

Normally we do 16"OC, why are you going for 12?
Oops I was initially doing 16" OC because my joist span was going to be 14' with a 2' cantilever since it's changed to a 12' with a 2' cantilever I can now use 16" OC so I will change that and redraw the sketch. I think I understand everything else you mentioned I will redraw my plans and post again sorry if this is very tedious.

I thank you so much for the time you have taken to help me. I am going to write down my full build and complete all my permit documents and then I will probably post again with my full build along with all materials just to ensure that I'm doing everything properly.

Thanks!!
 

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retired framer
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Oops I was initially doing 16" OC because my joist span was going to be 14' with a 2' cantilever since it's changed to a 12' with a 2' cantilever I can now use 16" OC so I will change that and redraw the sketch. I think I understand everything else you mentioned I will redraw my plans and post again sorry if this is very tedious.

I thank you so much for the time you have taken to help me. I am going to write down my full build and complete all my permit documents and then I will probably post again with my full build along with all materials just to ensure that I'm doing everything properly.

Thanks!!
If you are thinking perimeter board, that is early in the planning too.
Furniture Wood Table Outdoor furniture Wood stain
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'll have to look into perimeter boards this is the first time I've seen them. Another question if I wanted to change the joist to be total length 16' span 14' cantilever 2' would I need to have more footers? Or can I keep the 3 and just move them down so the cantilever is still 2'. Just thinking I'd need less cuts if I used 16' joists

I found this article for perimeter board and it looks great

I will probably redo my drawing and submit here with the perimeter board blocking and extra joist.

Thanks again for all the great info and suggestions!!
 

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retired framer
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I was just looking in to fasteners for the deck should I be using screws for everything?
Most home owners build it all with screws, but best to ask inspectors if you are getting a permit and a permit is a suggestion.
I was not suggesting the perimeter, just that if that is a thought, the planning for it is before you build not after the frame is up.
Yes you would have the beam at 14 ft and you would use 16 ft joists, anything less and you would need another beam ..
We always add a second joist around the perimeter after everything is built but 2" bigger it makes things easier for adding stairs and a skirt below the deck
Rectangle Parallel Font Slope Diagram

We take some off the bottom corner of the beam so it is less visible from the outside.
Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Diagram

We like to lower the ledger against the house so we don't trap water, best it to just lower it 3/4"
And in line with the joist just a piece of 1x2.
Font Parallel Slope Rectangle Event


So if you plan for this stuff like the extra 2x12 you might adjust measurements so the final wrap is 16 or you end up buying those 2 ft longer for little benefit.
 
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