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No real need to remove, Looks like nailed to floor joist, but I would still some structural screws for it. Also would put some sealer on that, along with using deck joist flashing tape on all your deck joist.
 

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Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the responses to build onto this is that metal strip above the ledger board existing flashing? Would I be able to use that existing flashing when I replace my ledger board with the pressure treated boards?

TIA
It will depend on how the flashing was installed. It should go up behind the house wrap. Especially if flashing is aluminum it must not touch the PT .Chemical reaction. Needs flashing tape between the two.

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Vinyl is ok .Never have really used it. Personally being the siding is Vinyl I would remove the bottom course or two to get the flashing done right. You joist should have flashing tape on them .

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You asked about tape some time ago.
I am not sure what you have available, I retired before it got into use here.
I think 2" wide for the single joists, 3" or 3 1/2 for the double around the edges, you don;t want that showing to the outside. and for the ledger about 6 or 7 inches for the ledger and up the wall behind the house wrap.
Trex makes a ledger tape now with aluminum embedded in it .11" x 50' called Trex Seal.
 

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If you are doing it like it like in # 59 with the siding tight to the deck ( MPO) and are using a flashing tape on the side wall and down over the top of the ledger I see no reason for the vinyl flashing.
 

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That is flashing coil, similar to the vinyl flashing. Not needed. Just use flashing tape up the side wall and down over the ledger board. If it is not wide enough, start at the ledger, lapping over the ledger working you way up hill, so everything flows downhill. You can use the tape on the bottom over the concrete some to provide a good seal there.
 

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I would like to see what you have when you remove what you have on the wall before making to many suggestions.
If that is nailed to the wall you may need a cat's claw to pull nails
View attachment 697797
Don't be ordering all your lumber to far ahead, it is easier to deal with when it is wet. So it can be well worth extra trips or deliveries.
I like those cat's paws, hard to find though. another advantage wo waiting if using PT is less change of wrapping and twisting.
 

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That saddle is fine but for $60 more for each, I don't understand. Grab some Trimclad black in a spray can and make the cheap one black.
Did you tell them you were lowering the ledger and that you would be using 6" wide tape and the type of tape.
If you must have hard flashing then you can put the ledger level with the joists and still tape it and you would need a galvanized head flashing like a roof to a wall flashing and you may need to have that made.
View attachment 698050
Or a window flashing but it needs to be almost 90* so it is not to high for the decking.
View attachment 698051
But never aluminum. The treatment in the wood will eat aluminum.
Although flashing tape protects the aluminum, but never just by itself. And less he is leaving the siding up off the deck there is no real need for anything other than the tape.
 

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MO. I would remove 1 or 2 courses of the siding. Get rid of that flashing that is there. Reflash every thing correct order. You will have a better job and less fiddling with that flashing there now.

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Everything needs to run down hill, Start at bottom and work up. You can use a second piece of tape on top of the wrap to hold things down. This way no water gets in behind. Have to remember vinyl only sheds water , not make things water tight.
 

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I wasn't going to do the metal flashing because you guys said the flashing tape was enough.

Do you think I should do the metal flashing now? If so I have some available.

For the house wrap shouldn't be taping the bottom sealed right?
The only reason I see for the metal flashing on top is if the siding is going to be up off the deck and you need it there to cover the tape.
 

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