DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 262 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

Looking to started a new deck build but I have a question regarding ledger boards. The one which was installed by our builder is only nailed in. Would I need to remove this and replace it with a new one if I wanted to use lag bolts or could I use lag bolts on the existing ledger board? Would I need to remove the existing nails if I was to use the existing ledger board?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the input everyone looks like I'll need to remove the existing ledger boards an replace them with pressure treated ones. When I remove the existing ledger boards will I need to somehow fill the existing nail holes or can I just fasten the new ledger and flash it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the responses to build onto this is that metal strip above the ledger board existing flashing? Would I be able to use that existing flashing when I replace my ledger board with the pressure treated boards?

TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok thanks. There is no flashing tape currently between the aluminum flashing and existing ledger board.
My current plans for replacing the ledger board are below can you let me know if you see any issues?

1. Remove existing ledger board and flashing.
2. Add back flashing tape to area where ledge board is being attached. (Some resources say to flashing tape doesn't need to be applied underneath the ledger and instead fold over the top of the ledger?) I read into it more and looks like I'll be adding back flashing with the vinyl flashing
2. Attach pressure treated ledger board with fasteners (I'm still getting the spacing requirements from my city's building code)
  • LedgerLok's
  • Diameter: ¼”
  • Length 3 ⅝”

3. Install vinyl flashing (Would it be ok to use Vinyl Flashing or should I use copper flashing? I'm located in Edmonton Alberta)

I'm also not sure of what to do with that right side ledger I was planning for a joist to be there but should I just replace that ledger and put a joist beside it?


I have a question in bold that I'm not sure of.

Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
What type of flashing would be ideal with pressure treated wood?

If I am building new, victor or the like goes 3” below and 6” above the ledger board before the house wrap. Ledger goes on. vicor then starts 6” above ledger, down to ledger and folds over. House wrap goes over that. I would get as close as you can to that.
What is victor/vicor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Another question for the ledger board on the right should I replace that as well? I'm not sure what to do about the joist that will be against that piece. Do I attach it to the ledger on the right somehow or is that ledger not needed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Both ledgers need replacing with pressure treated wood, and they need to be either lagged into the band of the house or use Head Loks instead of relying on nails alone. Which way will your joists be running? From the house or parallel to the door wall?
I was going to run the joists from the house perpendicular to the longer ledger board, which is why I wasn't sure about what to do with that ledger on the right side
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks everyone I am going to fully finish my planning and probably post it on these forums for critique in the near future. Again thanks for the all the information from everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Hi guys another question related to the ledger board. I decided I want to go 12' against the house but the ledger is 10' what do I need to do to get the extra 2'? Do I attach a longer ledger board that extends off the house and does it need to be supported?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Sorry if this drawing is very amateur please let me know if I've messed anything up.
I was planning on running 2x10x16 3ply beams for the beams which would be max length.
I'm not too sure how I should space the posts. The posts don't need to be located underneath a joist correct?
Right now my spacing that I drew isn't very consistent.
I'm not sure also what to do with the 10' ledger board do I just extend it 2' off the house or would I need a post for that extra 2'?
As well, I'm not sure what to do with J11 as it will be where the 2' ledger board is. Should I move it over to the right and mess up my spacing a bit?
I'm also not too sure if I need that 2nd beam but the deck is 14' long so I was assuming I'd need it.

TIA

Font Rectangle Line Material property Parallel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I made some changes for you and assumed 2x10 joists.
View attachment 697271
Thank you for this I have some questions below:

For the double ledger how do I attach this? I'm trying to find a youtube video but I can't seem to find one with a double ledger.
What does the "Extend Ledger 2"" mean? Does this mean to extend the 4' ledger so it touches the deck? Also how should I connect that joist to the 4' ledger?
For the 2 beams can I just connect those using a beam connector on the middle footing? As well, does my 1' beam cantilever work here and then just place the last footer in the middle of the other 2 footers?

Thanks a tonne!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks again Nealtw just another few questions I have attached an updated sketch.

I have added what you recommended but is it fine for me to just install the double ledger 2" away from that side piece? Which now that I think of it will already be that far away since the existing side ledger is beside it.

For Joist spacing how much does 12" OC matter? For example at J10 if I just put J11 at the edge of the ledger would that be ok even if it was a bit more than 12" or a bit less?

Also should I put another joist after J11 at the start of the next ledger or is that unnecessary?

For J14 and J15 should I double the joists here or can I get away with having just J15 and removed J14? The spacing would be larger than 12" OC here it would probably be 14".

Thanks,
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If you replace the siding on the 2 ft wall, I would do the double ledger first a little short so you can do all the flashing on that and down the end of it ans still have roof to put the inside corner down for the siding. So that 2" should be fine for that. That will be different hanger for the joist 2" way,
The one on the right as the nails inside so you can use it right at the end of the ledger, there are a few places you can use those, at the corners.
View attachment 697306

Normally we do 16"OC, why are you going for 12?
Oops I was initially doing 16" OC because my joist span was going to be 14' with a 2' cantilever since it's changed to a 12' with a 2' cantilever I can now use 16" OC so I will change that and redraw the sketch. I think I understand everything else you mentioned I will redraw my plans and post again sorry if this is very tedious.

I thank you so much for the time you have taken to help me. I am going to write down my full build and complete all my permit documents and then I will probably post again with my full build along with all materials just to ensure that I'm doing everything properly.

Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'll have to look into perimeter boards this is the first time I've seen them. Another question if I wanted to change the joist to be total length 16' span 14' cantilever 2' would I need to have more footers? Or can I keep the 3 and just move them down so the cantilever is still 2'. Just thinking I'd need less cuts if I used 16' joists

I found this article for perimeter board and it looks great

I will probably redo my drawing and submit here with the perimeter board blocking and extra joist.

Thanks again for all the great info and suggestions!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Most home owners build it all with screws, but best to ask inspectors if you are getting a permit and a permit is a suggestion.
I was not suggesting the perimeter, just that if that is a thought, the planning for it is before you build not after the frame is up.
Yes you would have the beam at 14 ft and you would use 16 ft joists, anything less and you would need another beam ..
We always add a second joist around the perimeter after everything is built but 2" bigger it makes things easier for adding stairs and a skirt below the deck
View attachment 697413
We take some off the bottom corner of the beam so it is less visible from the outside.
View attachment 697414
We like to lower the ledger against the house so we don't trap water, best it to just lower it 3/4"
And in line with the joist just a piece of 1x2.
View attachment 697416

So if you plan for this stuff like the extra 2x12 you might adjust measurements so the final wrap is 16 or you end up buying those 2 ft longer for little benefit.
Awesome thanks.

At the moment weren't planning on skirting because we wanted to store small things under the deck but if we do skirting in the future having that extra 2x12 would be good.
Is the 2x12 attached to the ledger or is it just screwed into the 2x10 that it's against?

I don't completely understand the ledger what is the grey block the rim joist? So pretty much just move my double ledger down 3/4" enough to fit a 1x2?

I have attached 2 images below and have some further questions.

For the image below I used the purple line to highlight where the extra 2x12's should be attached is this correct?
As well, the dark shading is where I'm going to add blocking and another joist beside the blocking is this enough for perimeter board? Some sites also say to add another joist beside that joist so essentially a double joist to help with the blocking. On J9 those small scribbles aren't blocking I just wanted to cross them out so you can ignore those but I do have blocking near the top. All blocking is 16" OC.

Product Rectangle Purple Textile Wood


For the image below I am worried about doing the layout correctly my plan is currently to remove all the sod from the area and then do the following as outlined:

1 & 2: Stake corner of house perpendicular with string line and ensure line is level. Then use 3,4,5 rule to make sure string is perpendicular and straight from the house.
3: Batter board 3' in to where the posts need to be placed taking into account cantilever use 3,4,5 to ensure straight and perpendicular again.
4. Use 3,4,5 to ensure straight still.
Finally line to wall and ensure we are all straight with 3,4,5.
Then I will mark the 3 post holes does this sound all correct?

Rectangle Handwriting Font Parallel Pattern


Thank you for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ah yes I forgot that it can wrap that 2' that makes sense.
The black marks are extra boarding for the perimeter board that needs to run parallel to the joists.
I saw in this article: How to Picture Frame a Deck: Proper Framing & Blocking
As shown it has an extra joist with blocking in it and then another support joist is this the way to do it or is there an easier way?
I understand that picture now I was just looking at it incorrectly thanks 😬

I have further questions now as I have forgot to take into account the stairs.
We were planning on having the whole front 16' as stairs with railing on the entire sides of the deck.
I'm not sure if this is ideal though..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Okay thanks your way looks a lot easier and more accurate.
I'll think of the stairs later haha.

I've looked around but I wasn't able to find a definitive answer I'm located in Calgary, AB do my footings need 6" of gravel at the bottom under the tubing or can I just put the tubing in my 4' holes without the gravel. Not too sure here.

I just wanted to run a perimeter board around but still not too sure how I need to set up my layout for this

Thanks!
 
1 - 20 of 262 Posts
Top