[Vanner]

I want to put a small lean to shed on the side of my shop (shop is new and siding not on yet). Will store snow blower, lawn mower, garden tools, bikes, etc -> light duty.

Outside dimensions would be 8 wide x 4 deep x 7 shy tall. 3’ door would be offset on the 8’ wall. From bottom of framing to grade is 11”.

My questions:

Can I simply tack my framing onto the shop, using the shop as my back wall?

Can I use 2x4 for the floor joists (>4’ span)?

Can I use 2 pylex and double 2x6 as bean to pickup floor frame? Easier way?

 

[Vanner]

This is sort of the idea I was working from:

 

[Nealtw]

You can use the shop for the back wall but if you do that you want to tie it all to the shop Line it up so you walls can be nailed into studs and if the inside of the shop is not finished and a stud on the sides of those studs so when you side the shop you have something to nail to.

 

[Vanner]

Awesome

Ledger board onto building same way you would for a deck?

2x4 for floor framing okay?

2 pylex to pickup beam or is that overkill?

 

[Nealtw]

Awesome

Ledger board onto building same way you would for a deck?

2x4 for floor framing okay?

2 pylex to pickup beam or is that overkill?

plywood might hold up with no joists so 2x4s should work.

I would build the floor frame at 46 1/2" with a 2x6 front rim and then nail to the wall and add another 2x6 to the front and support the front with 2 pyramids.
The header for the door 2 2x6 89" long to better spread the load to the pyramids

 

[Nealtw]

You asked about the top 2x4,you just nail that up and after you shingle the roof you cut the paper and tuck the head flashing in behind.

 

[Vanner]

For the front, nail the second 2x6 inside the rim board so it is butt against the 2x4 joists and 3 1/2” proud on the bottom?

How do I get the pyramids level and stable for the long term? Dig down a bit and compact gravel?

Pyramid is $8, Pylex is $29

 

[Nealtw]

For the front, nail the second 2x6 inside the rim board so it is butt against the 2x4 joists and 3 1/2” proud on the bottom?

How do I get the pyramids level and stable for the long term? Dig down a bit and compact gravel?

Pyramid is $8, Pylex is $29

no your joists 43 1/2" long.

yes gravel under them and pick up some plastic shims for when they do move a little or if you just need a little fine tuning.

 

[Nealtw]

For the front, nail the second 2x6 inside the rim board so it is butt against the 2x4 joists and 3 1/2” proud on the bottom?

How do I get the pyramids level and stable for the long term? Dig down a bit and compact gravel?

Pyramid is $8, Pylex is $29

no your joists 43 1/2" long.

 

[ron45]

Is your name Don Vandervort.?

I would build it with a concrete floor.

 

[Vanner]

Neal, forgot to ask - why 46 1/2” deep vs 48”?

Also, would you apply same rational to 8’ width?

 

[Nealtw]

Neal, forgot to ask - why 46 1/2” deep vs 48”?

Also, would you apply same rational to 8’ width?

You want a double on the out side under the plywood so you build a floor 46 1/2" so you can nail thru the ledger and rim into the joists, then add the second rim making it 48". then nail or bolt it to the building.

You could do the same with the 8 ft length with the rim and ledger at 7'9" and add a 48" rim to each end.

 

[Vanner]

Why a double rim on the front?

 

[Nealtw]

Why a double rim on the front?

Because I suggested setting it on corner pyramids.

 

[House Designer]

If your shop has frost-depth footings like a lot of garages, then I would not connect a lean-to structure to it that rests on skids. You are asking for trouble due to frost heave.
A stand-alone structure would be a better idea in this case.

 

[Vanner]

Because I suggested setting it on corner pyramids.

I thought the second 2x6 was getting nailed inside the rim supporting the joists and would be 3/12” proud on the bottom for the pyramids to pick up?

If that’s the case joists at 35”?

 

[Nealtw]

I thought the second 2x6 was getting nailed inside the rim supporting the joists and would be 3/12” proud on the bottom for the pyramids to pick up?

If that’s the case joists at 35”?

This is what I had in mind.

 

[Vanner]

Got it.

 

[Vanner]

Finished framing the shed now I need to get a door on with a modest size light panel.

Door opening is 36” x 74” and I won’t be cladding the exterior until later in the summer.

Wondering how to frame this door with window for long lasting use, and howto mount it so cladding will finish properly around it.

Do I trim the door opening and make sure it is thick enough to be proud of the cladding? Screw door hinges into the trim?

 

[Nealtw]

Finished framing the shed now I need to get a door on with a modest size light panel.

Door opening is 36” x 74” and I won’t be cladding the exterior until later in the summer.

Wondering how to frame this door with window for long lasting use, and howto mount it so cladding will finish properly around it.

Do I trim the door opening and make sure it is thick enough to be proud of the cladding? Screw door hinges into the trim?

When we get a pre hung door, it comes with a brick mold that goes against the sheeting and house wrap, then the siding buts into the brick mold.