[plschwartz]

I want to build a weather-tight lean-to against a shingled outer wall But leave the shingles in place. What might I use to fill the uneven space between the shingles and a stud. Without damaging the shingles. I am afraid contractors form will not come off.

 

[kaschmid3]

If u put 2x against the shingles and mark where every shingle touches the 2x(bottom of shingle) now Id the fun part depending on thickness of shingles ( usually 3/8) where u marked every shingle on 2x using straight edge draw a line and mark from your 3/8 out point to the edge of your next line going up (essentially drawing a shingle on 2x now just repeat process and cut out each one with jig saw (sorry if hard to understand I'm still fairly new on site still learning to write my thoughts )

 

[plschwartz]

thank you. Understood perfectly.

 

[AndyGump]

And after doing this weird thing, how do you intend to weather-proof the stud to shingle connection?


Sometimes DIY'ers is the craziest peoples.



Andy.

 

[kaschmid3]

A little caulk of course. But keep in mind if this is just temporary u will have silicone and holes in your shingles

 

[joecaption]

Well that made 0 since to me.
The question or the very strange ansewer.
Got a picture for where you plan on doing this?

 

[kwikfishron]

The only correct way to do it would be to remove shingles, install the ledger and build the roof, roof it then install a roof to wall flashing that goes behind the shingles and weather barrier on the wall.

The only possible way to do it and not remove any shingles would still involve roof to wall flashing that would have to be tall enough to get completely under and behind a full coarse of shingles plus a couple inches of the next coarse for it not to leak. Not an easy task and not recomended.

Either way no goop (caulk) is required.

 

[kaschmid3]

Yes if this is going to be temporary I would make freestanding(not attached to house) if this is permanent how I described is how u essentially cope around shingles) which u can make water tight but u would still want to put a ceiling or roof over it and that would be s whole nother story is it under an over hang, roof, porch????

 

[brockmiera]

The only correct way to do it would be to remove shingles, install the ledger and build the roof, roof it then install a roof to wall flashing that goes behind the shingles and weather barrier on the wall.

The only possible way to do it and not remove any shingles would still involve roof to wall flashing that would have to be tall enough to get completely under and behind a full coarse of shingles plus a couple inches of the next coarse for it not to leak. Not an easy task and not recomended.

Either way no goop (caulk) is required.

I agree that this will solve the wall to roof transition, you can get pre broke metal flashing that can accomplish that, but I think the tough part will be the wall to wall transition on the now inside corners.

 

[Larryh86GT]

Here is what the shingle cut PT 2x4 looks like. This is a screened enclosure I put on the front entrance to my house. It's been there about 20 years so far. It is 2 pieces cut on the edge which makes it easy to cut out.

 

[brockmiera]

Can you step back and give us a picture of the entire side of the house?

 

[plschwartz]

Thank you all. Larry's way looks best. It isto store some stuff for a relative (hint not mine) who is off to "find herself"
If and when she does I want the house back as was.
But Kwwikfishron's answer brings me to what I thought would bem y only summer project.
See Ledger board and a header.

 

[joecaption]

Not sure why you would not have just cut the siding or removed it in that area and laid the board tight againt the sheathing. Seem like it would have been less work.

 

[Larryh86GT]

Can you step back and give us a picture of the entire side of the house?

Here's the whole side of the house and a picture of a 2 x 4 that was notched out flat which is a lot harder to do.

 

[hand drive]

Here's the whole side of the house and a picture of a 2 x 4 that was notched out flat which is a lot harder to do.

I've back notched many a boards, usually for butting against chimneys and following the chimney steps up the angle is always fun too...