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Discussion Starter #1
After building 8 years ago, I am now refinishing our basement. I removed the lid on our sewage basin and discovered that it was full of water. Nothing has been hooked up to it yet and the pump has been disabled. The seal/gasket around the 4” line-in is faulty. The level of water, at equilibrium, is even with the top of the 4” PVC pipe. Hoping that this is a symptom of trapped water under the basement slab, I have been pumping it over to the sump crock. After two weeks, the rate of inflow does not seem to have diminished. Maybe there is a spring under the house?
We have a leach field that is already distressed, having surface water that will run over it during heavy rainfall. We also have a lift tank between septic tank and field.. So, I do not want to pay to pump more than is required (twice) and especially do not want to add to the load of the leach field more than is necessary. I’d like to use the existing ruffed-in plumbing if possible and avoid the added expense and noise of an up-flush toilet.
Questions:
How can I repair the seal between the 4” sewage pipe and the basin? I would think this is possible because the head pressure is minor, but don’t know how best to approach.
Could I insert a Sanigrind type (self contained tank/pump) into the sewage basin with a direct connection to the 4” line? This would keep the ground water separate from the sewage but would need to be water proof, etc.
Grasping for an answer
 

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Roofmaster
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It might be me, but I am having a hard time understanding your sanitary sewer system. Can you explain it more fully, step by step? I have a hard time getting any system that does not depend on gravity when it comes to solid waste. I mean poop runs downhill, one of the cardinal rules of good plumbing.

:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re

I could start at the grocery story but, instead, let's start with the toilet. Again, nothing is hooked up yet. Poop leaves the toilet and enters a line that feeds into a 4" line under tha basement slab. That line exits into a sewage basin that would then be pumped to the gravity line that leads to the septic tank. The issue is ground water entering the system at the sewage basin.
 

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Roofmaster
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Ugh, I dont think that is supposed to happen. Doesn't your land perc? Clay?

I know in PA where they are mostly on rock, a loam mound is required for a septic field in many cases.
 

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You are right---the basin needs sealing----is it a soft plastic one or a good solid cast plastic one?

There should be a rubber gasket/seal between the pipe and the pot--is there one?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Basin Seal

Yep, it a good solid basin
I think it's a zoller pkg system - pump & basin
Basin = 18 x 30
There is a rubber seal/gasket between the 4" PVC line & the basin
The 4" line comes in straight & square
Looks like a good install except ...
 

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It will be a booger to repair. I wouldn't now where to start except to replace the gasket- It will be hard to position the new one in place without opening the floor.
You said you were pumping the water to a "sump crock". That must be a regional term- what is it? Sounds like your not actually removing the water-it's just finding it's way back under the slab?
 

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You said you were pumping the water to a "sump crock". That must be a regional term- what is it? Sounds like your not actually removing the water-it's just finding it's way back under the slab?
Crock=pit

OP is pumping the water from the sewage pit into the sump pit
 

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Crock=pit

OP is pumping the water from the sewage pit into the sump pit
So then- is it possible that the water is going from pit to pit to outside, leaching back under the slab?
I know that is not the real problem with the tank leak but it makes me wonder if any water is actually being removed :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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>>So then- is it possible that the water is going from pit to pit to outside, leaching back under the slab?
I know that is not the real problem with the tank leak but it makes me wonder if any water is actually being removed<<

I've had an issue with the lack of cement in the coupling on the pvc sump line to the street. It got worse over time. Eventually, the sump was running nearly continusouly and the dial nearly spun off the electric meter. I was pumping the same water round & round. That has been fixed and I can confirm that sump pump discharge is making it to the street.

I really am not relishing the idea of tearing up the floor slab to fix the seal. Hoping that someone might know of a Sanigrind type tank/pump, self-contained waterrpoof unit that could be inserted into the basin w/ direct connect to the 4" line. I'd pay $500 not to tear up the slab for a maybe fix. I have considered trying to slip a rubber coupling over the 4" line firmly against the seal to see if it helps. Still looking for a real fix tho
 

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I have used this companies products several times but never for your type of situation- only on concrete walls.
http://www.linkseal.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Interesting - thank you

Looks like, given clearances, I would either need to reduce the pvc to 3" or enlarge the hole in the basin - not good. To reduce to 3" pvc puts me back to having to tear up the slab. Maybe I should resign to that option. Still holding on for a work around that lets the leak exist and direct connect to the 4" pvc.

What about a smaller "new" basin that installs inside the existing leaky basin? Does a workable size exist?
 
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