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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for the length of this...

I've had a leakage in the basement for at least several days that I thought was some new just, you know, basement leak. :wink: However, several things started leading me to believe it might be the water heater and so early today I called a guy in to come look at it.

And it's leaking. Once he got some covers off and showed me where, I could see it slowly dripping.

I am in a position I despise, that I have to get this thing replaced fairly quickly, and do not have the usual amount of time to do research, shop around, etc. I might have enough for a couple of quick showers and I don't mind leaving the dishes a couple of days. But I'm going to have to get this replaced fairly quickly. :censored:

So questions/information are:
1) He says because the leak is coming from the inside it can't be repaired and needs replaced. Anyone not believe that?
2) I have to get a short part of a gas line replaced that he claims is not up to code. Given how old it is, I do believe that.
3) His company only deals in Smith and Rheem and he personally recommended the Rheem. I guess this is one of my more important questions, whether that brand is indeed any good or if I should be trying to call elsewhere. (It's a 22V36F1, though it's also supposedly a 40 gallon.)
4) It's gas. I guess that's important to know. :laughing: I did check those tankless ones real quick, but I think I don't have time to go off a completely new direction and don't know if it's worth it. While I live alone and don't need 40 gallons of water heated all the time, I do keep the temperature just high enough to not run out on an average shower and no higher.
5) He quoted me $1400, installed. Does this seem ludicrous? I know it's very high compared to the prices I've seen on the water heaters alone. But I absolutely cannot install it myself, and this includes replacing the small part of the gas line that's out of code, and it won't fit as is, so both the in and out lines (copper) and the vent (some thinnish silver metal) have to be changed a bit, tho I don't think that's a big deal. Couple of other minor things he has to do.

One of those times I might have to just bite the bullet and go for it, as long as that brand doesn't suck, cause I just don't have time to do much. Just in case I try to call for a couple of other quotes, what other brands are good? My old one is a Kenmore - it's over 20 years old.
 

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Somehow I think of $1400. for the total job to be high.

You can keep using the water heater a little longer but be aware that the leak will get bigger, possibly bigger quickly.

If you turn the cold water inlet valve off overnight and when everyone is out for te day you will cut down on the chance of a bad flood, although you could still get up to 40 gallons (a little over 5 cubic feet) on the floor dependin on how high up on the tank the leak is. It is possible you may have to turn off the main cold water valve since it is not unusual for the water heater feed valve, not used often, to not seal tightly.

Do you have a Home Depot or Lowes nearby? Have them give a quotation.
 

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i recently had home depot replace my water heater for a grand total of about $1200. i got a 9 year water heater which was about $620. the rest was parts and labor.

most of the labor charge will be based on where it is located. mine was in an attic above the second floor, so it was the highest charge for labor since it is the most difficult. plus, where you are located will differ as well. here, lowe's, home depot and sears were all pretty close in total cost for the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wouldn't get a Whirlpool. :wink:

OK, update. I just talked to a guy at Home Depot and for the same "budget level" equivalent GE model, he's quoting about $700. That does not include replacing that piece of gas pipe coming in and he couldn't quote that (I have to talk directly to the installation guy) but he thought it would still be under $1000.

And... his quote on one of the 12-year better ones was only about $100 more, and I can get a $50 rebate from the local gas company for that one. So I think I'm going to go for that once I get something more firm on the gas line part.

Very cool. Thanks for the ideas!!! :thumbup:
 

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I've been getting hot water heater quotes for the past few weeks. Here are some ballpark figures (includes install and removal).

50 gal installed (6 year war): $950 start
75 gal installed (6 year war): $1500 start

I read somewhere that AO Smith makes the GE HWH's at HD.
 

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When you first notice a hot water heater leaking, get a new one ASAP. Don't spend too much time humming and hawwing or you'll come home one afternoon to a flooded out house.

Around here, $1000 is pretty normal. Look in the Yellow Pages and make some calls, but git er done before you have a $20,000 insurance claim on your hands.
 

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swet equity...why don't you replace it we will talk you thru it..the swetting of the copper is east and to reconnect the gas is just as...if it is dripping did you notice if it was the tank or a thread point only (5) on them hot/cold...gas valve... relief...and pet cock drain.the tank is actually your house cold water pressure standing there with heat applied...as to which is better go with HD and buy it your self they all don't make HWHs they just throw their brand on them AO Smith Rheem Kenmore on and on.i've had my 40G Kenmore 23 yrs with swet shut offs and unions hot/cold and flush it every year since putting it in and pop the relief to vent so that sees a cycle then flush it when refilled to clean it out..you'll feel great doing it yourself:whistling2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll reply to this just for the heck of it. No, I won't feel great doing it myself. I'll do a lot around here myself, but not this. I can't even handle something that big and huge, and don't have the tools, bad back and knees, and I'm not messing with any billion year old gas lines. And it's leaking from the inside.

Oh, and the GE is a Rheem. And for those urging me to just get it done, the decision was already made, but I needed to talk directly to the installation company today and it's going in tomorrow.
 

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I've asked this on another thread, but maybe more opinions will be offered up here:

I've spoken to two plumbers and both have two techniques to replace the hot water heater:

Plumber A: shut off main in house; drain water from pipes, remove gate valve and replace with ball valve....

Plumber B: shut off supply from curb (do not shut off house main); use a "swet jet" to replace shutoff valve....

So, which is the better method?
 
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