We have a 2' x 2' water heater closet (1st floor, pier & beam cape code home, built 1935) which got wet after water heater leakage. The current flooring in the closet is very old linoleum tile, with the floor boards below. I recall when we had slate tiles installed in the kitchen, which is attached to this closet, there was no sub-floor but rather only thick maybe 2" x 6" planks -- or something like this.
At any rate, I just capped off the water supply lines yesterday and plan to let the floor dry for about two weeks.
I am also planning to rip out the old linoleum tile, apply hardy-backer board to the floor and maybe 1 foot up the side walls, then apply ceramic tile, and then paint the closet walls and hardy-backer which is on the bottom of the walls.
Questions:
1. Is two weeks long enough to let the wet floor and wet sheet-rock near the floor dry. What about the thick water-logged planks which form the flooring support, they have to be soaking wet?
2. After I rip out the old linoleum tile, should I place anything below the hardy-backer board when I screw it in to the floor boards (using star-screws for hardy-backer)?
3. Where the hardy-backer boards join together, is there a particular caulking or cement I want to use?
4. I purchased a new Rheem 29 gallon gas water heater that has a diameter of 16-1/2", so I need a very small drain pan. Does anyone make small drain pans that I can buy online?
5. Regarding the pressure relief PVC drain line, the PVC threaded adapter which fits into the brass outlet is 3/4, so do I need to step up to 1-inch PVC to meet code, or is 3/4 PVC for the entire drain line okay?
6. For the PVC drain line coming out of the drain pan, does that have to be 1-inch or is 3/4 PVC okay?
7. Last, can the new water heater sit directly on the pan, or is a stand needed to meet code?
At any rate, I just capped off the water supply lines yesterday and plan to let the floor dry for about two weeks.
I am also planning to rip out the old linoleum tile, apply hardy-backer board to the floor and maybe 1 foot up the side walls, then apply ceramic tile, and then paint the closet walls and hardy-backer which is on the bottom of the walls.
Questions:
1. Is two weeks long enough to let the wet floor and wet sheet-rock near the floor dry. What about the thick water-logged planks which form the flooring support, they have to be soaking wet?
2. After I rip out the old linoleum tile, should I place anything below the hardy-backer board when I screw it in to the floor boards (using star-screws for hardy-backer)?
3. Where the hardy-backer boards join together, is there a particular caulking or cement I want to use?
4. I purchased a new Rheem 29 gallon gas water heater that has a diameter of 16-1/2", so I need a very small drain pan. Does anyone make small drain pans that I can buy online?
5. Regarding the pressure relief PVC drain line, the PVC threaded adapter which fits into the brass outlet is 3/4, so do I need to step up to 1-inch PVC to meet code, or is 3/4 PVC for the entire drain line okay?
6. For the PVC drain line coming out of the drain pan, does that have to be 1-inch or is 3/4 PVC okay?
7. Last, can the new water heater sit directly on the pan, or is a stand needed to meet code?