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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Hey all. So still living with this issue. Finally got around to trying to fix this by adding more purple + cement. Cut into the ceiling and have better access but of course the exact spot is right next to the frame studs - so any which way, there is no easy & direct access.

cleaned the area with acetone and of course now the leak is worse and so having difficulty with it being fully dry. I thought this was a good time bc minimal water has been used through these pipes, so I thought but there is a constant drip (like 1 every minute now). I still cleaned it up and put a coating of purple and then cement, but the water keeps dripping through so I’m assuming this application won’t properly dry to seal.

the bad joint is on the upper connection…I thought it was the lower. But with the access from above now, it’s definitely the upper. At this point, do I call back the plumber? (Haha! Not the $200 guy for cement). Or do you think I can do this?
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Clean it up real good and get as dry as possible. Get some rain/shine pvc glue, it sets up in 20 minutes I think. Then leave everything open to check to see if it worked.

Where is that drip coming from, you need it to be fairly dry. The only issue is if it will ever leak again if this repair of gluing over it works. To me it looks like the joint separated when it was first installed. Smaller pvc will separate a little when you glue it initially, you have to keep some pressure on it and give a twist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Clean it up real good and get as dry as possible. Get some rain/shine pvc glue, it sets up in 20 minutes I think. Then leave everything open to check to see if it worked.

Where is that drip coming from, you need it to be fairly dry. The only issue is if it will ever leak again if this repair of gluing over it works. To me it looks like the joint separated when it was first installed. Smaller pvc will separate a little when you glue it initially, you have to keep some pressure on it and give a twist.
Thanks. So I was trying to just glue sort of into the seam without having to twist (in hopes the glue would weep into the seam) bc the other side is glued in & secure). I guess the only way really is to break the seal on the other end, also? As otherwise I wouldn’t be able to twist at all. It’s such a tight space I don’t have ease in getting a good grip. 😞
 

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Hey all. So still living with this issue. Finally got around to trying to fix this by adding more purple + cement. Cut into the ceiling and have better access but of course the exact spot is right next to the frame studs - so any which way, there is no easy & direct access.

cleaned the area with acetone and of course now the leak is worse and so having difficulty with it being fully dry. I thought this was a good time bc minimal water has been used through these pipes, so I thought but there is a constant drip (like 1 every minute now). I still cleaned it up and put a coating of purple and then cement, but the water keeps dripping through so I’m assuming this application won’t properly dry to seal.

the bad joint is on the upper connection…I thought it was the lower. But with the access from above now, it’s definitely the upper. At this point, do I call back the plumber? (Haha! Not the $200 guy for cement). Or do you think I can do this?
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Why don't you replace the 45 instead of smearing a miracle cream on it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Why don't you replace the 45 instead of smearing a miracle cream on it?
Is this the piece you mean?
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ETA. Just got a better picture and duh. Yes, I guess you’re right. I’ve never done this before so feeling overwhelmed. You think I can manage it? It’s this piece right? And no need to replace that middle short connecting piece?
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If that is the 45 pictured early in the thread, yes.
Does that 2" line have a 90 on the other side of the floor joist? Can you access it?
You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
You need a bigger hole! You have make a patch on the dry wall, another foot or 2 won't hurt. Show me the other side of the joist .
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
If that is the 45 pictured early in the thread, yes.
Does that 2" line have a 90 on the other side of the floor joist? Can you access it?
Thanks @TheEplumber for sticking with me. So here’s a better shot I took so you can see it all further back. I circled the same piece as in the previous post. I also cut Into the ceiling on the other side and it’s just another stretch of pipe (which I believe is coming from the kitchen sink which is maybe about 20-25’ further down & the above).
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I was hoping the 2" line turned perpendicular to the 3" once it went through the joist, they do quite often. This would allow you to cut it and have some flexibility to move the line back temporarily as you worked to replace the 45.

This will try your patience and your skill set, but my suggestion would be to vertically oblong the hole in the joist without damaging the joist flanges. Cut out the 45 and pipe between the red lines as shown leaving 3/4" of pipe sticking out of the wye branch. Glue a coupling on this short stub left in the y. Then glue up a new 45 with pre-assembled pipe nipples in both ends- these lengths will match those on the 45 when you cut it out (minus the coupling interior stops). Glue this assembly onto the coupling. Use a rolled back no-hub coupling on the long 2" pipe to make the final connection as it drops into alignment The oblong hole is needed to allow the 45 and pipe to elevate while glue into the hub.

So, now you have 3 options laid out- My way, cut out the wye and 45 and then rebuild. Or use glue or epoxy or the joint.... Just to give you an idea of time- I could do it in an hour including a potty break and a couple trips to the van for parts and tools.... But I have done similar repairs several times....
Oh, option 4 as you suggested would be to call another plumber :)

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Cut out the 45 and pipe between the red lines as shown leaving 3/4" of pipe sticking out of the wye branch. Glue a coupling on this short stub left in the y. Then glue up a new 45 with pre-assembled pipe nipples in both ends- these lengths will match those on the 45 when you cut it out (minus the coupling interior stops). Glue this assembly onto the coupling. Use a rolled back no-hub coupling on the long 2" pipe to make the final connection as it drops into alignment The oblong hole is needed to allow the 45 and pipe to elevate while glue into the hub.
Is this what you mean?
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If you have the room, I'd use a regular 45 instead of the street fitting.
Oof, what a nightmare. Wishing you good luck OP.
Yep, it won't be easy. That's about the worst place for a leak, especially working with an angle
 

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I have only worked with larger PVC a couple of times and it is brutal trying to get enough clearance to get the pieces together and to fit up straight, even when you have better access. Especially if you need to do a test fit before gluing and trying to get that apart. One of my very least favorite things to have to do.

If you have the room, I'd use a regular 45 instead of the street fitting.

Yep, it won't be easy. That's about the worst place for a leak, especially working with an angle
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
If you have the room, I'd use a regular 45 instead of the street fitting.
Thx E. I’m not familiar with all the fittings/sizing and wasn’t sure if a hub x hub would fit over the coupling, bc technically the coupling will be slightly larger than the regular 2” pipe. I guess I’ll figure it out at the store and make sure they all fit together.

…& yes, it scares me if you guys keep saying it won’t be easy. I debate every hour whether I should just call another plumber..,but sort of not trusting anyone after what we went through. I know technically this is an easy & straightforward fix. It’s just the location and the accessibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Ok. I’m going to try this. I hope you guys will stay with me to help me through each step where I might need to take a pause. I think the hardest steps will be cutting the oblong hole - I’m guessing it’s time to go buy an oscillating multi-tool. Is there any other tool that you can see working for me here? The only tool I have that seems feasible in this small space is my Dremel
But the blades are not deep enough. But would love any ideas here.

then still due to the tight space, I’m going to try the nylon string cutting method to make the cut for the short piece.

i guess as I try to map out each step in my head, the other challenge will be creating the perfect fits/measurements. I think gluing that coupling back into the short stub might difficult, as well.

mad for the rubber coupling - is there anything special I need to do like apply anything to the pipes first? I think no, and it’s mostly about ensure the screws are tightened to the max so no leaks, right?

i always wondered if those rubber couplings were good and reliable and used by professionals or if they were the “cheating route”.
 

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A keyhole saw might work. You could drill a few holes to get it in there then have at it. Oscillating saw, rotary tool (bigger than Dremel) with a saw blade, or maybe even a small recip saw would also work. You can ty what you have but if you are like me a job like this is always an excuse to buy a new tool. :)

Ok. I’m going to try this. I hope you guys will stay with me to help me through each step where I might need to take a pause. I think the hardest steps will be cutting the oblong hole - I’m guessing it’s time to go buy an oscillating multi-tool. Is there any other tool that you can see working for me here? The only tool I have that seems feasible in this small space is my Dremel
But the blades are not deep enough. But would love any ideas here.
 
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