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I agree with Neal … it’s a very good chance they used a leftover i-joist as a convenient method of framing the soffit. You can cut a surprisingly large hole in the plywood as long as you don’t cut the top & bottom lumber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Cylinder Material property Font Gas Metal

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Oh man - I really struggled with cutting through that wood bc I was so afraid of cutting into pipes and such behind and the jigsaw that I had was difficult to maneuver into that space. Combo of drilling holes around, using jigsaw where I could manage, a Dremel, and a hammer - here’s the result. I know. It’s ugly (don’t laugh) but gave me closer access.

So yes, it’s definitely a leak at the joint/connectors at the branch. Still difficult it to access but here it is. I’m guessing it’s what I thought. Over the years, was already compromised and during the jackhammering above, it just loosened it more.

OK. So now for the fix. What do I do? To completely remove the pipes and replace with new pieces and reconnect, it’s going to be tough bc of the access. Any simple fixes through the tight access?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Thanks @Nealtw for staying with me on this. I watched those videos - that string thing is crazy!

ok. Sorry for the questions but I’m confused. Is this where I need to make the cuts?
then-using that special socket saver tool, I would need to use to clean out The blue circled sides? And then I’m using the black couplings to re-attach at the yellow lines?

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Is it just me or is it in that one pic that shows "here's the leak" that it looks like it's the only connection without purple primer? And perhaps no glue?
 

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You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
Is it just me or is it in that one pic that shows "here's the leak" that it looks like it's the only connection without purple primer? And perhaps no glue?
You need a bigger hole! You have make a patch on the dry wall, another foot or 2 won't hurt. Show me the other side of the joist .
 

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Thanks @Nealtw for staying with me on this. I watched those videos - that string thing is crazy!

ok. Sorry for the questions but I’m confused. Is this where I need to make the cuts?
then-using that special socket saver tool, I would need to use to clean out The blue circled sides? And then I’m using the black couplings to re-attach at the yellow lines?
Cut the main pipe 2" away from the fitting on both ends
And cut the leaky pipe in the back .
Then you will have the fitting out of the way to work on drilling the fitting on the other end of the short leaky pipe.
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Ah ok, but still... I see no purple primer on that joint... It may not be the leak today, but tomorrow?
It won't matter, that fitting goes in the garbage, he may need to cut it in half to get room to cut the other pipe.
Either way it isn't worth saving unlike the one up in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Why cut out a perfectly good fitting?
ok. So I see there’s a debate about how much to cut out. @TheEplumber are you suggesting centralizing the fix just in the leak pipe? So my pic from post #46 above?

and Neal, I think you’re suggesting cutting out the entire branch piece + the short leak pipe & fittings. I got a better photo.
Wood Cylinder Gas Pipe Composite material


also after cutting a little more, not sure how much more access it’ll give me but I was thinking about cutting through the ceiling. I did my best to feel up around there and think it’s open just above the ceiling there. The only problem is that the area is still Blocked by 2x4s which is just next to the main leak location.
 

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ok. So I see there’s a debate about how much to cut out. @TheEplumber are you suggesting centralizing the fix just in the leak pipe? So my pic from post #46 above?

and Neal, I think you’re suggesting cutting out the entire branch piece + the short leak pipe & fittings. I got a better photo.
View attachment 677975

also after cutting a little more, not sure how much more access it’ll give me but I was thinking about cutting through the ceiling. I did my best to feel up around there and think it’s open just above the ceiling there. The only problem is that the area is still Blocked by 2x4s which is just next to the main leak location.
Yes that is what I was suggesting, I don't see a better why but i have been wrong before.
 

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On a sewer joint with no pressure, I have used purple primer around the hole, or around the joint, then a few coatings of pvc glue. Let the first coat of glue dry, then go over it one more time. I fixed a pvc pipe from a sump pump that was extended along side of my gutter In a simular matter. This joint had some pressure. You could at least try this, checking it daily to see if it worked, before you start cutting pipe.
 

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I guess it goes without saying to get the joint as dry as possible, maybe not using the sewer upstream from the joint for a day, and then running abrasive or sandpaper around the joint.
 
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