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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Clean it up real good and get as dry as possible. Get some rain/shine pvc glue, it sets up in 20 minutes I think. Then leave everything open to check to see if it worked.

Where is that drip coming from, you need it to be fairly dry. The only issue is if it will ever leak again if this repair of gluing over it works. To me it looks like the joint separated when it was first installed. Smaller pvc will separate a little when you glue it initially, you have to keep some pressure on it and give a twist.
Thanks. So I was trying to just glue sort of into the seam without having to twist (in hopes the glue would weep into the seam) bc the other side is glued in & secure). I guess the only way really is to break the seal on the other end, also? As otherwise I wouldn’t be able to twist at all. It’s such a tight space I don’t have ease in getting a good grip. 😞
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
Why don't you replace the 45 instead of smearing a miracle cream on it?
Is this the piece you mean?
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ETA. Just got a better picture and duh. Yes, I guess you’re right. I’ve never done this before so feeling overwhelmed. You think I can manage it? It’s this piece right? And no need to replace that middle short connecting piece?
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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
If that is the 45 pictured early in the thread, yes.
Does that 2" line have a 90 on the other side of the floor joist? Can you access it?
Thanks @TheEplumber for sticking with me. So here’s a better shot I took so you can see it all further back. I circled the same piece as in the previous post. I also cut Into the ceiling on the other side and it’s just another stretch of pipe (which I believe is coming from the kitchen sink which is maybe about 20-25’ further down & the above).
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Cut out the 45 and pipe between the red lines as shown leaving 3/4" of pipe sticking out of the wye branch. Glue a coupling on this short stub left in the y. Then glue up a new 45 with pre-assembled pipe nipples in both ends- these lengths will match those on the 45 when you cut it out (minus the coupling interior stops). Glue this assembly onto the coupling. Use a rolled back no-hub coupling on the long 2" pipe to make the final connection as it drops into alignment The oblong hole is needed to allow the 45 and pipe to elevate while glue into the hub.
Is this what you mean?
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
If you have the room, I'd use a regular 45 instead of the street fitting.
Thx E. I’m not familiar with all the fittings/sizing and wasn’t sure if a hub x hub would fit over the coupling, bc technically the coupling will be slightly larger than the regular 2” pipe. I guess I’ll figure it out at the store and make sure they all fit together.

…& yes, it scares me if you guys keep saying it won’t be easy. I debate every hour whether I should just call another plumber..,but sort of not trusting anyone after what we went through. I know technically this is an easy & straightforward fix. It’s just the location and the accessibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Ok. I’m going to try this. I hope you guys will stay with me to help me through each step where I might need to take a pause. I think the hardest steps will be cutting the oblong hole - I’m guessing it’s time to go buy an oscillating multi-tool. Is there any other tool that you can see working for me here? The only tool I have that seems feasible in this small space is my Dremel
But the blades are not deep enough. But would love any ideas here.

then still due to the tight space, I’m going to try the nylon string cutting method to make the cut for the short piece.

i guess as I try to map out each step in my head, the other challenge will be creating the perfect fits/measurements. I think gluing that coupling back into the short stub might difficult, as well.

mad for the rubber coupling - is there anything special I need to do like apply anything to the pipes first? I think no, and it’s mostly about ensure the screws are tightened to the max so no leaks, right?

i always wondered if those rubber couplings were good and reliable and used by professionals or if they were the “cheating route”.
 
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