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Now that there is a pic of the inside I am wondering if that plywood on the side is another one or two of those plywood joists acting as a beam? It might be structural.
 

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What room is on the oher side of that wall?
Is it a finished room?
I am wondering if it might not be better to work on that pipe from the other side of the wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
What room is on the oher side of that wall?
Is it a finished room?
I am wondering if it might not be better to work on that pipe from the other side of the wall?
It’s a finished basement and this is the other side of the wall. Not sure easier from the other side bc of that other soffit - not sure if there’s an AC vent duct?
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And yes it’s strange there’s a leak but I have a feeling there was an old leak there that stopped for a while (as in 1-2yrs) bc I did notice some drywall staining a while back. We had some major floor renovation on the 1st floor that required jackhammering the subfloor. I wonder if all that vibration is the reason any compromised joint may have gotten worse.
 

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It’s a finished basement and this is the other side of the wall. Not sure easier from the other side bc of that other soffit - not sure if there’s an AC vent duct? View attachment 677868

And yes it’s strange there’s a leak but I have a feeling there was an old leak there that stopped for a while (as in 1-2yrs) bc I did notice some drywall staining a while back. We had some major floor renovation on the 1st floor that required jackhammering the subfloor. I wonder if all that vibration is the reason any compromised joint may have gotten worse.
You are right, a soffit on Both sides, it still might be better IF there are NO wires and other pipes in that soffit.

I think what I am seeing in the blowup of that pipe leak is a dark leak stain coming from above the connection into the TEE to the main. Where the horizontal feeder pipe has an (unseen) elbow turning down to go into the TEE.
That makes more sense at that elbow. Try the tissue paper trick to isolate the leak location prior to ripping out more sheetrock.

EDIT I wouldn't start cutting into the plywood until some of the experts verify what the support structure is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
You guys have all been so amazing and helpful. Love learning from you all! I think I’m at the critical point of “way in over my head” and might have to call in a pro. Ugh - any educated guesses on estimated cost to fix this?

:cautious:
Also, not sure if related or not but another problem. This morning came to make my iced coffee and the entire ice bin was a solid block of ice. I got it out and see water is dripping into the bucket & freezing and the cubes are not being made and dripping in. The leaking pipe, I believe is connected into the kitchen…is there any possibility the pipe problem is now causing Thai freezer ice maker problem or is this just coincidence?
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Leaking pipe problem has nothing to do with the icemaker issue.
Others can comment on the ice maker, I would suggest a separate topic for that issue.
 
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This is probably considered a hack fix by a lot of members ;)
However, IF the leak is due to a poor glue joint, there is a product/method for a easy quick repair without having to do major surgery in a really hard place to get into.


I have never even heard of this product till now, so I can't comment on it's working or not.
BUT even if it doesn't work... there is no harm done, as a full replacement repair would cut it all off anyway.

Personally, if it were me doing that fix in my home I would try it.

EDIT... not to be used on pressurized pipes, which this is not.
 

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I think I’m at the critical point of “way in over my head” and might have to call in a pro. Ugh - any educated guesses on estimated cost to fix this?
More than you want to pay. You “might” call a plumber to fix the leak, but there’s no reason you can’t pull off all the sheetrock and give him easy access. That would reduce the cost a little. But really … keep going. You can do it yourself. Start by removing a wide area of sheetrock so you can plainly see what’s there and get good access.
 

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More than you want to pay. You “might” call a plumber to fix the leak, but there’s no reason you can’t pull off all the sheetrock and give him easy access. That would reduce the cost a little. But really … keep going. You can do it yourself. Start by removing a wide area of sheetrock so you can plainly see what’s there and get good access.
Plus, with a little guidance, you can make much less mess of the drywall that will need repair after the leak is fixed.
 

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You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok guys. You’re giving me some hope & confidence to try but I’m a bit nervous. But you really sure a damsel in distress can manage this? I want to try but a little scared.

about the side soffit plywood. Once I cut into it will it have to be replaced after or Ok to leave when closing the wall back up?
 

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I am not sure you should cut into that plywood, It looks like it might be structural from the pic you took of the inside of the soffit.
Wait till you hear back from someone better than me ;)

Nealtw... (y) or most anyone really
 
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