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You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
 

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You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
Is it just me or is it in that one pic that shows "here's the leak" that it looks like it's the only connection without purple primer? And perhaps no glue?
You need a bigger hole! You have make a patch on the dry wall, another foot or 2 won't hurt. Show me the other side of the joist .
 

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Why cut out a perfectly good fitting?
 

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Hey all. So still living with this issue. Finally got around to trying to fix this by adding more purple + cement. Cut into the ceiling and have better access but of course the exact spot is right next to the frame studs - so any which way, there is no easy & direct access.

cleaned the area with acetone and of course now the leak is worse and so having difficulty with it being fully dry. I thought this was a good time bc minimal water has been used through these pipes, so I thought but there is a constant drip (like 1 every minute now). I still cleaned it up and put a coating of purple and then cement, but the water keeps dripping through so I’m assuming this application won’t properly dry to seal.

the bad joint is on the upper connection…I thought it was the lower. But with the access from above now, it’s definitely the upper. At this point, do I call back the plumber? (Haha! Not the $200 guy for cement). Or do you think I can do this?
View attachment 679902 View attachment 679903
Why don't you replace the 45 instead of smearing a miracle cream on it?
 
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If that is the 45 pictured early in the thread, yes.
Does that 2" line have a 90 on the other side of the floor joist? Can you access it?
You need to open as much of the soffit as you can to access the 2" 45 on the back side of the TJI to confirm that is where the leak is. I suspect it is, judging by the stain on the 2" branch of the 3x2 wye.
Go to the upstairs to the fixture/s you suspect the 2" pipe to serve and run water. As the water is running, watch for drips and trace the drip to it's source. With the water off, you can also try wiggling the 2" pipe on the upstream side of the joist and see if it will pop out of the downstream fitting. You may get lucky and find a dry fit fitting that only requires to be pulled apart and glued. Or it may be something much more difficult and above your skill set. But at least you can run the diagnostics to save some money and be informed when talking to the plumber.
You need a bigger hole! You have make a patch on the dry wall, another foot or 2 won't hurt. Show me the other side of the joist .
 

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I was hoping the 2" line turned perpendicular to the 3" once it went through the joist, they do quite often. This would allow you to cut it and have some flexibility to move the line back temporarily as you worked to replace the 45.

This will try your patience and your skill set, but my suggestion would be to vertically oblong the hole in the joist without damaging the joist flanges. Cut out the 45 and pipe between the red lines as shown leaving 3/4" of pipe sticking out of the wye branch. Glue a coupling on this short stub left in the y. Then glue up a new 45 with pre-assembled pipe nipples in both ends- these lengths will match those on the 45 when you cut it out (minus the coupling interior stops). Glue this assembly onto the coupling. Use a rolled back no-hub coupling on the long 2" pipe to make the final connection as it drops into alignment The oblong hole is needed to allow the 45 and pipe to elevate while glue into the hub.

So, now you have 3 options laid out- My way, cut out the wye and 45 and then rebuild. Or use glue or epoxy or the joint.... Just to give you an idea of time- I could do it in an hour including a potty break and a couple trips to the van for parts and tools.... But I have done similar repairs several times....
Oh, option 4 as you suggested would be to call another plumber :)

Wood Bag Font Gas Tints and shades
Wood Red Gas Composite material Cylinder
 

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If you have the room, I'd use a regular 45 instead of the street fitting.
Oof, what a nightmare. Wishing you good luck OP.
Yep, it won't be easy. That's about the worst place for a leak, especially working with an angle
 
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