[Steve2444]

Make sure all the wires and plumbing are moved away from the inside of the soffit plywood prior to cutting into it.
Use anything, wood blocking etc as a spacer between the wires and plywood from install thru the access hole you made in the bottom.

 

[Steve2444]

I don't think there's any plywood on the bottom of the chase.

I will change the wording, I meant to say put the blocking in "thru" the access hole on the bottom.

 

[Steve2444]

Seems odd to me (not a plumber) that the leak would be at that joint/fitting where the top pipe feeds into the main.
Even if it was a bad glue job, it would have to back up about 3" to leak out of that joint.

I would wrap tissue paper at each glue joint to see which got wet, to verify the location of the actual leak.

 

[Steve2444]

Now that there is a pic of the inside I am wondering if that plywood on the side is another one or two of those plywood joists acting as a beam? It might be structural.

 

[Steve2444]

What room is on the oher side of that wall?
Is it a finished room?
I am wondering if it might not be better to work on that pipe from the other side of the wall?

 

[Steve2444]

It’s a finished basement and this is the other side of the wall. Not sure easier from the other side bc of that other soffit - not sure if there’s an AC vent duct? View attachment 677868

And yes it’s strange there’s a leak but I have a feeling there was an old leak there that stopped for a while (as in 1-2yrs) bc I did notice some drywall staining a while back. We had some major floor renovation on the 1st floor that required jackhammering the subfloor. I wonder if all that vibration is the reason any compromised joint may have gotten worse.

You are right, a soffit on Both sides, it still might be better IF there are NO wires and other pipes in that soffit.

I think what I am seeing in the blowup of that pipe leak is a dark leak stain coming from above the connection into the TEE to the main. Where the horizontal feeder pipe has an (unseen) elbow turning down to go into the TEE.
That makes more sense at that elbow. Try the tissue paper trick to isolate the leak location prior to ripping out more sheetrock.

EDIT I wouldn't start cutting into the plywood until some of the experts verify what the support structure is.

 

[Steve2444]

Leaking pipe problem has nothing to do with the icemaker issue.
Others can comment on the ice maker, I would suggest a separate topic for that issue.

 

[Steve2444]

This is probably considered a hack fix by a lot of members
However, IF the leak is due to a poor glue joint, there is a product/method for a easy quick repair without having to do major surgery in a really hard place to get into.

Leak-B-Gone™

www.kinginnovation.com

I have never even heard of this product till now, so I can't comment on it's working or not.
BUT even if it doesn't work... there is no harm done, as a full replacement repair would cut it all off anyway.

Personally, if it were me doing that fix in my home I would try it.

EDIT... not to be used on pressurized pipes, which this is not.

 

[Steve2444]

I am not sure you should cut into that plywood, It looks like it might be structural from the pic you took of the inside of the soffit.
Wait till you hear back from someone better than me

Nealtw... or most anyone really

 

[Steve2444]

They have used left over floor joist material
Some are made with big holes.
View attachment 677905

Really? I didn't think you could cut holes in the floor joists like that, doesn't that ruin the structure? Just relying on the top and bottom 2x4 ?

 

[Steve2444]

Is it just me or is it in that one pic that shows "here's the leak" that it looks like it's the only connection without purple primer? And perhaps no glue?

 

[Steve2444]

Sorry. The arrow tip was technically not long enough.
View attachment 677957

Ah ok, but still... I see no purple primer on that joint... It may not be the leak today, but tomorrow?

 

[Steve2444]

Thanks Dave and Navane. I actually missed these posts and came back to give an update/pose another question. I didn’t feel confident cutting the pipe myself so we called a plumber (someone we don’t know) who agreed to do the fix for $300 and then he came down to $200 after we opened the wall ourselves. I assumed he would replace the pipes but he walked in with just glue cans. I asked if he needed a ladder or any other supplies bc I found it odd and he said no. That’s when I realized all he was going to do was put cement around it. I was a bit appalled that he would charge that much just to brush some glue onto the seam. I have no idea if you professionals feel that’s a fair charge or not, but I felt a bit had.

Anyhow, so here I was about to ask if I could just try to brush on a new layer of cement and whether it would work. Sounds like based on the last few posts, at least worth a try. I’ll do my best to “dry” out the drain by not using for a day. Thank you very much for your suggestions and guidance!!!

I guess I’ll skip the PVC cement we already have and go buy some epoxy putty and try it out.

This guy is a "Hack" I'm sorry you didn't ask us first.

 

[Steve2444]

I really like JB weld on metal, I have no idea how it works on PVC