[FileOpen]

Hi everybody-
My house is 60 years old. I haven’t used the kitchen very much until the Corona virus lockdown.

Since I’ve started using the kitchen sink more, I noticed it drained slowly. It’s a double sink, water would drain from one sink and would come up in the other sink and eventually drain. Then it seemed like it was truly clogged. I made sure the P trap was clear. When doing that, I also unfastened the piece where a leak is now occurring, see picture. It seemed there was a thin layer of a dry white paste. Not sure, could it be plumber’s putty ?

I called a plumber and it looks like there’s lots of corrosion, which explains the clog. So the plan is to replace with PVC from where the drain comes into the basement down to original Y that goes to the main drain. Nothing in the wall is to be replaced.

Since I never really used the sink, not sure how long the leaking was an issue.

So 2 questions:

1) Is it typical to replace the PVC as described but not replace anything in the wall ?? Is this mainly a stop-gap that will eventually result in going with PVC in the wall down to the basement ? I’m OK with going all PVC in the wall at a later time.

2) Can I resolve the leak with plumber’s putty ? I have that piece re-fastened pretty darn tight. Or does something have to be replaced ?

Thanks!

 

[jmon]

Replace the nylon washer, make sure it's correctly installed, (thicker end of the washer facing slip nut) tighten back down by hand. If still leaking, tightened a little more with channel lock pliers. i would get new slip nut to. That one may be cross threaded now that you overtighten it. They come all together.

If correctly aligned and not cross threaded, and nylon washer present, you shouldn't need any glue, paste, putty, tape, or have to over tightened it.

 

[jmon]

As for your clogging issue and metal pipe; You say house is over 60 years old, so the metal pipe you are referring to may be galvanized, copper, or cast iron. Can't tell from the pic.

You ruled out the trap by cleaning it out. If it's still clogging, you have a partial blockage further down the line. Best to remove the trap and snake from there to clear the line. Kitchen sinks are notorious for clogging issues keeps plumbers in business.

If the pipes are old cast-iron or galvanized and corroded you may have other issues, as your plumber mentions, which may need to be replaced with new pvc.

Hope you get it all figured out and fixed soon file.

 

[FileOpen]

A plumber did get a snake to go through to pretty much the end of the line. The snake kinked up a few times. Had to withdraw and push forward. He said it was galvanized pipe.



I observed the leaking after he left.

 

[FileOpen]

Replace the nylon washer, make sure it's correctly installed, (thicker end of the washer facing slip nut) tighten back down by hand. If still leaking, tightened a little more with channel lock pliers. i would get new slip nut to. That one may be cross threaded now that you overtighten it. They come all together.

I'll see if I can replace that piece from the end of the P trap to the leak. It looks like those washers aren't really a separate stock item.

 

[jmon]

Yea, over 60 year old galvanized pipe is probably pretty corroded/rusted out by now. Maybe start saving up to replace that line with pvc in the future. Pvc is cheap.



Glad you got it unclogged for now file. Just replace that slip nut and washer, that should stop your dripping, you will be good to go. Remember no grease, fats or oils down the kitchen drain.

 

[jmon]

I'll see if I can replace that piece from the end of the P trap to the leak. It looks like those washers aren't really a separate stock item.

They come 2 in a pack separate or one with slip nut (get that one) available at any big box or hardware store. 1.5 in . Your current slip nut may be cross threaded or threads cracked now that you over tighten it, best to replace it to.

 

[FileOpen]

They come 2 in a pack separate or one with slip nut (get that one) available at any big box or hardware store. 1.5 in . Your current slip nut may be cross threaded now that you over tighten it, best to replace it to.

I've read that there may be a difference between manufacturers, is that so ?? If the current piece came from Big Box A and I go to Big Box B, will there be a problem ?



I mean, I can bring the piece but how can I be sure it's going to fasten correctly. Is there a "standard" ?


Thanks.

 

[hkstroud]

Coming out of the wall you have a 1-1/2" galvanized pipe. Screwed onto that is a 1-1/2" female PVC adapter used to convert from iron pipe to PVC. Then you have a short piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. You have a PVC 1 1/2" male adapter glued to the end of the PVC pipe. There are two types of male PVC adapters. One is made to convert to a threaded connection of regular 1-1/2" PVC pipe. The other is is an adapter to convert to a trap arm. They are slightly different.

The person who set this up probably didn't realize that and used a regular 1-1/2" male PVC adapter made to connect another piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. You need a 1-1/2 PVC male trap adapter. These usually come with two nylon seals. One for connecting a 1-1/4" trap (bathroom) one for connecting a 1-1/2" (kitchen) trap.


The regular 1-1/2" PVC male adapter and the 1-1/2" PVC trap adapter are very similar but different.


Purchase a male 1-1/2 PVC TRAP ADAPTER. Cut off the existing 1-1/2 male adapter. Glue on the 1-1/2 trap adapter and reconnect the trap arm. Manufacturer does not matter.

You may or may not need to purchase a new trap arm, all depends on how long the present trap arm is.


I would have thought that a real plumber would have recognized that a drainage back up would not have caused a leak at this connection.

 

[TheEplumber]

I've read that there may be a difference between manufacturers, is that so ?? If the current piece came from Big Box A and I go to Big Box B, will there be a problem ?



I mean, I can bring the piece but how can I be sure it's going to fasten correctly. Is there a "standard" ?


Thanks.

There are 2 types of nuts for the trap adapter-
1 is a seperate beveled trap adapter gasket and a nut. Both can be bought seperate.
The other has the gasket as an integral part of the nut.
Based on the color of the nut, I'd say you have the integral style.
Either style will work on your trap adapter.

 

[huesmann]

hk, why does the OP needs to cut off the existing adapter if the leak is occurring in the nylon washer and nut?

 

[hkstroud]

The threaded adapter (an adapter to convert to threaded connection) that is presently there, is different than the adapter made to convert to a compression fit around a trap arm. That is why the plumbers putty was found around the nylon ring when the trap arm was removed to snake the line.
Stop by Home Depot or Lowe's and look at a regular 1-1/2" PVC threaded adapter and at the threaded PVC trap adapter.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1...ub-x-SJ-Trap-Adapter-C48017HD112114/100348180

 

[hkstroud]

.........................

 

[FileOpen]

huesmann, thanks for the question.


hkstroud, thanks a lot for the marked up picture, anatomy lesson, links and screenshots.



Wow !!!

 

[bruceb3]

Everybody made valid points, but to me, it looks like it's leaking from where the pvc male adapter is screwed into the galvanized stack fitting. His title says it all.
In that case, the fitting needs to be unscrewed, taped or doped, and screwed back in.