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Actually, what I called the lower tee on the 3-inch drain line is a reducing wye, since the 2-inch branch that carries water down into the drain directs the water in the right direction. The vertical 2-inch "intake" of this reducing wye is the location of the questionable lead-oakum joint.
If I cannot repair this joint, I could pull it apart and try to interface to the cast iron with a rubber boot. However, the cast iron at this point has a "lip" that is 3.75 inches in diameter and then reduces to 3.5 inches in diameter. I could cut the lip off the cast iron pipe (sawzall again) and hopefully find a rubber boot made for 3.5 inches.
Or maybe I should add supports for the cast iron pipe on either side of the reducing wye and use rubber boots to install a new ABS reducing wye so I can re-plumb.
Since the floor is opened up now, I ought to go for the most reliable repair.
Any recommendations?
Tom
Actually, what I called the lower tee on the 3-inch drain line is a reducing wye, since the 2-inch branch that carries water down into the drain directs the water in the right direction. The vertical 2-inch "intake" of this reducing wye is the location of the questionable lead-oakum joint.
If I cannot repair this joint, I could pull it apart and try to interface to the cast iron with a rubber boot. However, the cast iron at this point has a "lip" that is 3.75 inches in diameter and then reduces to 3.5 inches in diameter. I could cut the lip off the cast iron pipe (sawzall again) and hopefully find a rubber boot made for 3.5 inches.
Or maybe I should add supports for the cast iron pipe on either side of the reducing wye and use rubber boots to install a new ABS reducing wye so I can re-plumb.
Since the floor is opened up now, I ought to go for the most reliable repair.
Any recommendations?
Tom