[ponch37300]

I'm a little confused right now. I've been working on my kitchen cabinets for sometime now. I did alot of research before I started. I wanted to paint them a white and then use a black glaze on them. I went to sherwin williams and talked to them about this and was told to get oil based primer and an oil based paint. Then she said I could use a latex glaze since it would be easier to work with. Then she said they usually put a clear finish over this but she didn't know if I brushed on a clear over the glaze if it would re activate the water based glaze and wipe it off so she told me I would be fine without it. She seemed like a really knowledgable person and even told me to prime/paint a door and bring it down and she would show me how to apply the glaze finish on it.

So I did the cabinet frames with primer and paint and then glazed it. Turned out pretty nice. Used some water to wipe something off the other day and some of the glaze came off with it. The doors weren't turning out with a brush/roller so I bought a HVLP conversion gun for my compressor and after alot of learning and help from others they are turning out great. My next step is going to be glazing them. I have been doing alot of reading on this and I have read mixed ideas on this. From what I read I don't think the latex glaze can be used over the oil paint? I am going to be upset if this is the case cause the lady at sherwin williams told me this is my best way to go since I'm new to faux finishing. I am going to be going back into sherwin williams and talking to them tomorrow but I twould like to get some advice on this first since they might have steered me wrong to beging with.

So if I can not use latex glaze over oil paint what are my options with the frames of the cabinets that already have the glaze on them? Can I wash the glaze off with denatured alcohol or something and then use an oil base glaze?

And also I think I would like to put a clear top coat on to protect the cabinets better and since I have a HVLP sprayer now it shouldn't be that hard. What would be the best finish to put over the glaze? I will be brushing the frames and spraying the doors. Any advice on a top coat will be appreciated.

Sorry for the long post but I'm confused. Thanks for your help.

 

[ponch37300]

I took a rag today with some warm water and a little dish soap and rubbed the cabinets lightly and the glaze came off. So I went down to my sherwin williams store to talk to them about this and see what can be done. I asked again if I can put latex glaze over oil base paint and she said yes that isn't a problem. She recommended putting a polyurethane on as a top coat. She said I would have to use the spray cans for the cabinet frames so I don't brush it on and re activate the glaze and smear it. She gave me 5 cans of poly to try and see if it will create a durable top coat for free. Hopefully it works but if anyone has opinions/suggestions on my situation I would love to hear them. Thanks again

 

[saggdevil]

I have only one experience with polyurethene. A kitchen window sill was made and painted to match rest of woodwork, then poly on the window sill only and it turned yellow.

 

[ponch37300]

If it turns yellow that would be no good. I'm really losing faith in sherwin williams. Would like to hear from someone knowledgable on the advice they have been giving me. But from the sounds of things the people at sherwin williams aren't much better than the home depot paint department. I thought going to sherwin williams and paying more for quality products and advice was better than a box store but not sure anymore. Hopefully someone will clear this up for me and let me know one way or another. Thanks again everyone.

 

[saggdevil]

Well...my experience is that SW has low-end as well as high-end paints, as they just replaced three gallons of Classic 99 with the Superpaint. Unfortunately their sales staff may or may not be the same caliber as the paint, lol .

But one issue you'll see here repeatedly is questions regarding oil vs water-based product. Different situations call for different products and cabinets being a little different than painting a room.

The following link may help you. It's posted from one the pros in this forum.
http://forum.doityourself.com/painting/292098-ideal-cabinet-repaint.html

 

[Matthewt1970]

Hmm, I think the problem is putting the latex glaze over the oil. I know latex paint won't really stick to oil, so why should latex glaze be any different.

 

[waynech]

We finish cabinets all the time. I don't believe that the latex glaze over the oil finish is a problem. Applying an oil poly will turn yellow even a non-yellowing oil. I would spray a high-end acrylic latex clear. It will not yellow and some hold up very well. However, if you are ever attempting to do another kitchen it would be prudent to contact professionals as opposed to clerks who work at sherwin williams. Good Luck

 

[ponch37300]

Well they gave me minwax polyurethane clear satin in a spray can for the frames and then some in a gallon to spray the doors.

I'm just frustrated cause you hear all the bad things about box store paint departments and not to go to them and now I go to a reputable company and seems like they don't know much more than the box stores. I bought their good paint and not their cheap one. At least they are trying to make it right by giving me a topcoat for free but my confidence in them is way down and now I'm wondering if this will help or make things worse. Guess I'll just have to find out.

Thanks for your help.

 

[waynech]

Always practice on the back of a door.

 

[ponch37300]

Thanks for the advice waynech. I sprayed them today andit didn't turn yellow. Not sure if it happens right away or if it turns yellow over time but so far so good. And it turned out nice and I tried scrubbing it with warm soapy water and it seemed to hold good. So I'm feeling a little better. Still don't understand all this oil over latex and latex over oil stuff but trying to learn! Thanks

 

[KLR]

The latex glaze is applied over the oil paint. The reason is because you can then work with it and wipe it off if you don't like it. It won't effect you oil paint.

After the latex glaze dries, and you are happy with it, you then MUST use a spray-on oil based topcoat. Thereby "sandwiching" the latex glaze in between. If you tried to brush it on it would move the glaze all over the place.

If you used an oil based glaze, it bites into the base paint immediately and any mistakes or dislikes can't be fixed. Kay

 

[ponch37300]

Thanks Kay. That is what I did. After the latex glaze I used spray cans of oil based poly for the top coat on the cabinet frames. For the doors I am going to try and spray the oil based top coat after glazing. It seemed to work good for the cabinet frames. Thanks, Scott

 

[KLR]

Your welcome.

Good going. Such a good feeling when things we do with our own two hands go well. DIY chatroom is so cool. Kayarty:

 

[ponch37300]

Yes, this has been a huge learning experience about painting and finishing. learned alot from the help of the wonderful people on this forum and things turned out alright.

 

[akbrandee]

Ponch,
I'm trying to do this method to our cabinets and am curious how your cabinets have held up and if they have yellowed. We have oil based primer and paint and I was told I could not put a latex glaze and top coat over the cabinets to seal the latex glaze in. I'm not sure I believe the kid working at the SW store...so I'm curious...how have your cabinets held up?

 

[JPinCC]

It can take months to years for the polyurethane to yellow. My painter put poly over the whitewashed cabinets and I now have yellow cabinets.