[anyacolo]

i have done a few rooms in laminate flooring, and have had no problems,


now i want to do my foyer area, its a small area, but it has a wooden railing, and the base is on the floor,


how would i finish off the laminate butting up against this wood?


the wood is not high enough to put molding or 1/4 round like i normally do along walls, the laminate might even end up being level or higher than the wood,


what should i do?

 

[chandler48]

Your railing base is 3/4" and at best laminate will be 5/16 or so. I doubt it will be taller than your railing base. Careful cuts can run the laminate close to the railing, but you have to plan on expansion and contraction, so manufacturers may suggest you leave 1/4" spacing between the two. At that point, you may can use shoe molding, turned on its side to where only 1/2" is pointed up, driving your fastener into the railing so the floor can float.

 

[anyacolo]

but if i do that, the molding will end up being higher then the wood, it wont look right

 

[Old Thomas]

I would cut a piece to fit with the table saw. It would be the same thickness as the existing board and 7/8” wide. Then I would cut a rabbit in it a half inch deep and exactly the height of the laminate. That will leave 3/8” at the height of the existing board. Install the laminate 5/8” short of the existing board. Then drop in the milled piece and nail it down but not through the laminate. It will look like an extension of the existing board and will overlap the laminate 1/4” while leaving 1/4” for movement. If it fits correctly stepping on it will not break the thin part off. I might bevel or round the edge. It would take all of about 15 minutes to mill.
Alternatively if you can get a saw in there, you could cut off the edge of existing board, mill a rabbit in it, then put it back.

 

[Colbyt]

I would use a commercial carpet binder the vinyl T mold stye. It will cover laminate allow it move and compensate for up to 3/8" variance in the height of the two. The dark brown would be the best choice to match the wood base.


This is not the exact style I have used but it would work:

Sold at carpet installation supply stores everywhere.

 

[huesmann]

If you have sufficient reveal on the rail base, could you cut in a groove on the side and put in a very thin strip of something that would stick out 1/2, like some kind of plastic molding? The edge of the laminate could slide underneath it.

 

[anyacolo]

I would use a commercial carpet binder the vinyl T mold stye. It will cover laminate allow it move and compensate for up to 3/8" variance in the height of the two. The dark brown would be the best choice to match the wood base.


This is not the exact style I have used but it would work:


https://youtu.be/LJpv398wLXI




Sold at carpet installation supply stores everywhere.

thanks, i think thats the way i will do it

 

[ron45]

You do know that " 1/4 round comes in different sizes.?

https://www.google.com/search?q=1/4...oAhUelnIEHcuHAc8Qsxh6BAgNECs&biw=1920&bih=937

And lay the vinyl under the wood.

 

[carpdad]

If not too late, tile stores have a U channel for edge finishing. The metal channel could be painted as well to hide the metal. Undercutting the rail base would be best but impossible to leave very clean edge.
Leaving expansion space is required but that depends on the floor size. Recommended gap is kind of generic/universal number for a room. If your hallway (?) is narrow or such, even 1/8" may do, working together with the gap on the opposite end. Against the base trim and doorways also.

 

[carpdad]

Sorry, thinking about cutting that 1x board. It may be easier than I was thinking. Put the flooring against it, then score with a razor. Deep enough so the score is very easy to follow with a saw blade. Then plunge cut with oscillating saw. You can tape the saw blade for easy to see depth. Then chisel out with 1/4" chisel. This is for the length only and not sure about the endgrain. Not in the photo.
I cut under the drywall as such for my engineered flooring, although that was a rough cut. Door jambs also using the flooring as a guide, but it wasn't as clean as I expected and had to be sanded a bit.


That is a reminder. Do you have a tread nosing on the landing? How are you handling it?

 

[tribe_fan]

I used something like this next to a bathtub for for vinyl plank. Used an oscillating saw to cut one edge off. The extra height is fairly small.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zamma-G...0?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-301349860-_-N


They also make an L molding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Le...VUvDACh1QPgU0EAQYBSABEgLybPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[carpdad]

That bamboo piece looks very adaptable to a nosing.

 

[anyacolo]

I used something like this next to a bathtub for for vinyl plank. Used an oscillating saw to cut one edge off. The extra height is fairly small.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zamma-G...0?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-301349860-_-N


They also make an L molding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Le...VUvDACh1QPgU0EAQYBSABEgLybPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

that L molding looks great, I might use that


should i nail that with finishing nails?


or should i just glue it in place using wood/carpenters glue?

 

[carpdad]

Those pieces are too wide, my opinion, to edge trim the flooring to the rail base. It looks like added trim that doesn't belong.

 

[tribe_fan]

The L does look a little wide - ( 1 7/8). Maybe look for something narrower.

My "cut down" T was about an inch and was the exact color of the floor.



You could use glue or finish nail. If glue make sure its safe for Vinyl (like a tub surround)