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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in mid bathroom remodel when the shelter in place order came down so now I have a half finished bathroom for the next month or so I'm guessing, but who knows right now. The lack of a place to bath is not the issue as I plumbed hot and cold water to the clawfoot tub in the backyard anticipating losing the bathroom for about 3 weeks. Next week will be week 6 and we're dead in the water. My problem is that in gutting a framing the contractor removed an old ceiling light that was fed by knob and tube. As it turns out that light is on a circuit that I think is in line with the doorbell and electric strike plate for the front gate and now neither work. Pandemic, contractor broke his phone, wasn't backed up, can't consult with his electrician because he lost that number.....long story.

I see two wires coiled up. One is hot, the other is not and runs into a dimmer and then back into the ceiling. My background is in motion picture electrical service not residential. Pretty much everything I do is temporary. What I'm wondering is if I connected the two loose ends would I get my doorbell/gate buzzer back? The transformer for the doorbell/gate buzzer in the basement has a live hot going to it.

I'm thinking the break in the bathroom might have effected the neutral side of the circuit, but I don't know knob and tube design at all. Could this be possible?
I think the two wires in question both ran to the ceiling light which seems like the only missing component and the contractor says he just disconnected them from the light fixture when he removed it and coiled them up. I would have expected the hot to be coming through the dimmer and not through the light to the dimmer. Is it possible the dimmer was on the neutral? I don't see how that makes sense and then for that to also be in line for something halfway across the house.

1927 vintage house BTW. A long and winding story, hopefully coherent enough to paint a clear picture. I'm attaching a picture of the two wires in question. Thanks in advance.
 

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The "not" is the switched wire going back to the light. It will go hot if you flip the switch.
Show us more about the wires at the light. The problem is likely there.
 

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I'll let Joe handle the electrical but want to comment on getting renovation materials. Check box stores to see if any are open and check lumber yards to see if any deliver what you need.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The "not" is the switched wire going back to the light. It will go hot if you flip the switch.
Show us more about the wires at the light. The problem is likely there.
There is no light anymore. There is hole in the roof for a skylight where that used to be. My non contact voltage sniffer detects no voltage on either side of the dimmer switch which surprises me as all the breakers are on in the panel. I need to explore further back in the ceiling, but I don't think the contractor did anything that far up stream in the wiring. Unfortunately, my voltage meters are all back at the photo studio where I was expecting to go back to when we got sent home after a half day while they sorted out their employee protection measures before the shelter in place was ordered.
 

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Where the fixture was removed some of the K&T must have been cut or removed. That probably disable the other stuff. Tracing the old wires could be a problem for a non electrician.
 
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