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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an unfinished second floor from the 1950's. Is there any problem with me framing the knee walls like this without a top plate?

This isn't my picture, but it's what I was planning on doing. TIA.

 

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We always put the top plate. It makes getting a good joint in the drywall easier.

Can you post a picture of your space so we can give you suggestions on other parts of the job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are a few pictures. Excuse the 20 years of crap we've shoved up there. The one pic is where the roof lines meet at the top of the stairs. It's going to be an eye sore no matter what I do. I'm hoping to square it off somehow and put an access door there. That will be storage in the lower area behind it.
 

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· retired framer
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This is a strange way to frame this. The 2x4 with the light is likely doing more than it's share of the work so a wall there that would add support for the roof would be a good thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe that 2x4 with the light has another 2x4 nailed to the back of it, so it's a T. Can you see those long 2x4 behind that to tie the roof together? That's all storage, but I was thinking of moving them up?

What do you think of this mess though? Just wrap it as best as possible? I'm in Levittown, PA ... so every section/development has the same style house. There are subtle variations, but they're all the same. I'm trying to get pictures of what people did with this on our group FB page.

I'm an old drywaller. I can rock it. I just can't frame it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So what is your plan for insulation?
I only have 5.5 inches for the most part. I'm probably going to be stuck having foam sprayed in. I'm hoping I could get away with foam only on the slanted part of the ceiling and then batts for the top ceiling and knee walls. Blown-in in the storage area.

I don't want to pack out all of the joist so I can get batts in there. But if I had to I would. Or if it would somehow making framing this easier?

If I had to pack it out, I was thinking 2x12 screwed into each joist/rafter/whatever they're called.
 

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I only have 5.5 inches for the most part. I'm probably going to be stuck having foam sprayed in. I'm hoping I could get away with foam only on the slanted part of the ceiling and then batts for the top ceiling and knee walls. Blown-in in the storage area.

I don't want to pack out all of the joist so I can get batts in there. But if I had to I would. Or if it would somehow making framing this easier?

If I had to pack it out, I was thinking 2x12 screwed into each joist/rafter/whatever they're called.
With trusses they add a 2x4 to the rafter part for insulation.
What about venting?

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is a strange way to frame this. The 2x4 with the light is likely doing more than it's share of the work so a wall there that would add support for the roof would be a good thing
Would you have any idea what to do with this? I'm assuming the knee walls will just fall where they are and I try to pack all that out? I guess it's just going to look like a doghouse.
 

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I am not sure, it is nothing I have seen before. They usually put one valley rafter right up to the peak or build one roof on top the other. Both would be correct.


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What do you think about me cutting that thick beam on the bottom so that the bottom of that lines up with the bottom of the rafters coming into it. If I cut it back for 2 joists, maybe I can wrap it nicer? Would that structurally screw me? I'll probably end up getting the entire attic spray foamed.
 
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