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Someone had no clue what they where doing when this mess was done.
If it was mine I'd cut it where it comes out of the wall and replace all of it.
I think I'm seeing where there was no wall flange installed so time to add one, and there was no need for two valves, that could have been done with a double headed 1/4 turn stop valve.
 

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I agree with @joecaption to first remove it. I found it very difficult to unsolder old connections in my home, it is easier to cut out and start over.

But before doing anything are you sure that is where it is leaking? Small leaks can be hard to isolate because of water surface tension. I would first replace the washer in the shutoff valve to see if that fixes it. It is difficult to judge from your picture, but if this a Brasscraft shutoff, an inexpensive "Stem Repair Kit" like this one might be all you need.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Multi-Turn-Valve-Stem-Repair-Kit-BCSR01/204845385
 

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I agree, before you cut it out and start over, verify exactly where it's leaking from. Maybe it is dripping down from above around the faucet gasket, condensation, or spray hose, etc.

If it is in fact leaking from the soldered connection, and you do decide to redo it, they make push on sharkbite fittings for easy connection, no need to soldering/unsoldering required. Just cut the pipe and push-on.

Google a video on how to do this correctly if you have never worked with sharkbytes. Biggest mistake people make is they don't push them on all the way and they leak or fail. Then you can update those old gate style valves for new quarter turns. Available at any big box, plumbing supply or hardware store. Just a suggestion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I’m finally about to fix this leak. The leak is definitely coming from connection of the shut off valve to the pipe. I’m thinking it wasn’t soldered correctly when it was done. I was thinking about cutting the pipe from the wall and starting over but there’s a weird curve in the pipe and I’m worried about the shark bite valve not fitting properly. So I will unsolder the valve closest to the wall and add a shark bite shut off valve. Once off I plan on debuting in and outside of the pipe before placing the valve on. Is there anything I should do to the pipe to ensure there’s no leak? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with you 100%. My question is once I unsolder the old shut off valve from the wall, is there anything I should do to the pipe besides deburring before placing a new shark bite shut off valve?
 

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To preserve the O ring i would de-burr the sharp edge from the O D of the copper and from the appearance of the previous work i'd clean the area where the shark bite fits with a very fine emery cloth or sandpaper then lube the pipe with plumber's grease.


Edit Edit:
 

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I agree with you 100%. My question is once I unsolder the old shut off valve from the wall, is there anything I should do to the pipe besides deburring before placing a new shark bite shut off valve?
Sounds good in theory....but are you aware of really getting that unsoldered pipe CLEAN.


You are going to have to get it clean of solder.....get it melt temp and wipe it clean with some "insulated-multiple" rags.

Rather...If you can find enough stub of clean pipe...I'd generally go to cutting it off...deburing it...and polishing well with emery cloth. It has to be a true round.

But if you go ahead with the unsolder and sharkbite...I might first slip a compression ring over the pipe to sort of guage if it is perfectly round and smooth for the shark bite.

The nice thing about the sharkbite is if it leaks you can easily remove it....which can be done with a compression fitting if you carefully/surgically fine cut the ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everyone for the help. I finally replaced the shut off valve with the shar kbite valve.The hardest part was heating up the old valve to remove it. I wasn't sure how much heat to use but finally got it off. The rest was a piece of cake. Thanks again
 
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