[buckybadger]

I've got the not uncommon problem of wanting to switch a standard split receptacle on my kitchen counter to a GFCI. Into the box I've got:

x2 black
x2 red
x2 white

The respective colors are pig tailed and connected to the split receptacle. This setup is not currently running on a double pole breaker (bad).

My idea right now is to install a larger j-box that can fit another receptacle so that the reds could provide the hot connection to one GFCI while the black provide the hot to a second GFCI. They would share the neutral. It seems like this could allow me to maintain the advantage/necessity of redundant circuits for the kitchen while gaining an extra outlet and not having to rewire the panel.

Thoughts? Yes, no, maybe?

 

[ddawg16]

What do the red's connect to?

If only a single breaker feeding that line, then run the CB wires to the GFIC and then from the load side of the GFCI feed the other outlet. No need for two GFCI's.

 

[rjniles]

Are you saying the black and red are connected to 2 single pole breakers? Are they adjacent to each other?

 

[joed]

It will work for the one receptacle. However you will need to do the same thing at all other receptacles fed by this circuit. You can not use the LOAD terminals and the shared neutral.

 

[buckybadger]

I think I did a bad job describing the setup. It's B-W-R coming into the box and B-W-R leaving the box. All wires are pig tailed and then connected to the split receptacle. The conduit provides the ground.

I think what I want to do is listed here if you look at the first GFCI in the series. There wouldn't be anywhere to connect a black wire to the GFCI so the connection from the receptacle to the pigtail would go away. I would just swap the current split receptacle for a single GFCI.

http://i.stack.imgur.com/rUlki.png

 

[throrope]

Are you saying your counter receptacles are not GFCI?

I anticipate you have three wire coming into the box and then a separate three wire leaving to the next box and next split receptacle.

We covered our duplex receptacle with a six outlet "splitter" that screws in just like a cover. For your application, I suggest checking the top row don't connect to the bottom.

With respect to GFCI, you may find less work and cost to intercept the circuits where they leave the breaker panel and install GFCI receptacles there. All downstream devices will then be protected.

 

[throrope]

I would just swap the current split receptacle for a single GFCI. http://i.stack.imgur.com/rUlki.png

The split receptacles effectively create two circuits. I anticipate you will eventually find the top and bottom served by separate breakers or a two pole. I have not found a GFCI receptacle that can protect two separate circuits and tying them together will provide the typical single circuit GFCI receptacle with power beyond it's rating. It will also confuse the snot out of the next guy.

 

[AllanJ]

Yes, you may install a 2 gang box in place of the box you now have and install two GFCI receptacle units there.

Two white pigtails to the two incoming (feed and continuing) whites and connect the pigtail ends to the line side neurtral terminals of the GFCI units.

One red pigtail to the two incoming reds for the line side hot of one GFCI unit. Etc.

Nothing connected to the load terminals of either GFCI unit.

Other receptacles along the kitchen counter need their own GFCI units.

Optional: Install GFCI breaker at the panel and regular duplex receptacles in the new 2 gang box (and regular receptacles at other locations along the kitchen counter). Possible disadvantage of having to go down to the basement if the GFCI trips.

Finally, measure voltage betwen red and black. For a true multiwire branch circuit you will read about 240 volts. If not, all of the preceding steps were still necessary but the circuit has additional problems that should be addressed in a new thread.