[bob22]

I'm still in planning mode for cutting in a new door into existing back side of garage wall that would enter onto a patio.

Beneath the door is concrete.

For king stud placement, which is preferred below, end of king resting on sole plate (A) or resting on foundation, butting against sole plate end (B)? Since this will be inspected, and in B it would be resting directly on concrete (unless recommend to use sill plate liner that I have left over from another project) does it need to be pressure treated? That might be leading me to use A but if B is better, I'll do it.

Thanks!

 

[chandler48]

I put mine on the side to give the opening rigidity. Always use sill seal under all your plates and kings. You can always bring up the king slightly off the floor and still fasten it into the edge of your bottom plate if you are worried about water intrusion, which you shouldn't be. No to pressure treated for studs. They will tend to bend, shrink and warp too much in that situation.

 

[Nealtw]

That is the jack, the king is the one beside it. Normally we cut out the plate after the wall is built so they would have he plate under it. But sometimes we have one that goes down to the bottom and never had it fail.
I would do all the work with headers and studs first and then cut out the sheeting and the plate.

 

[bob22]

Thank you both. I like Neal’s build in place then cut sole plate away. No worries about supporting structure issues when cutting away structure.

So, what for a header assuming a 30”wide door? Two 2x6s with 1/2” what in the middle?

 

[Nealtw]

Thank you both. I like Neal’s build in place then cut sole plate away. No worries about supporting structure issues when cutting away structure.

So, what for a header assuming a 30”wide door? Two 2x6s with 1/2” what in the middle?

a rough opening for a 30 " door is 32" with one jack each side so the header is 35"

We ignore the 1/2" and put the header at the top with jacks holding it up and three cripples and a top sill for the door.
After it is built check corner to corner to see that it is square and check studs for plumb. Adjust with big hammer if needed, then cut sheeting.

 

[bob22]

Thank youNeal; clear as usual.

 

[ront02769]

Just did four of these today. In neals pix, my header sits on the jacks with cripples on top. Saves a piece of wood, just the way I learned. Ron

 

[Nealtw]

Just did four of these today. In neals pix, my header sits on the jacks with cripples on top. Saves a piece of wood, just the way I learned. Ron

So you cut and installed plywood to save a 32" of 2x4.

 

[bob22]

Either way, ok to use these screws in place of nails: Grip-Rite 3-1/2 in. Construction Screws?i’ll have more use for screws after than 10d nails.

 

[Nealtw]

Either way, ok to use these screws in place of nails: Grip-Rite 3-1/2 in. Construction Screws?i’ll have more use for screws after than 10d nails.

They are not code in many places, but i am sure they will work fine.

 

[3onthetree]

When I cut a sill plate in an existing wall to install a door, I put the jacks on the outside (like 'B'), so that it can be nailed straight into the side of the plate. Stronger IMO than toenailing on top of the plate. If it's just the king+jack butted up against a perpendicular wall, usually I eliminate the little 3" plate (prone to split) and run them both down to subfloor.

If the wall is stood up, the king+jack are both on top of the plate as Neal describes, then you come back and cut out the plate. They are nailed straight thru from the bottom of the plate then so no toenailing to worry about.

 

[Old Thomas]

The side of a framing member has less compressive strength than an end grain so it would appear that running the stud all the way down would be slightly better than letting it bear on a side grain. However, our code requires that an opening 6 feet or wider, where higher loads are present, have double jack studs. With that, it spreads the load enough that it doesn't matter.

 

[ront02769]

So you cut and installed plywood to save a 32" of 2x4.

Zero idea of what you’re talking about.

 

[Nealtw]

Zero idea of what you’re talking about.

You said you saved a 2x4, how do you make your 2 ply header 3 1/2" thick?

 

[ront02769]

You said you saved a 2x4, how do you make your 2 ply header 3 1/2" thick?

Same way you make yours 3 1/2” thick, stick three thin strips of plywoood in between, one at each end o done in middle. Or just do two ply header, flush up on one side and install 1/2” sheetrock when doing wallboard. Or non-load bearing your pix without that big header up top, cripples just run to top plate.

 

[Nealtw]

Same way you make yours 3 1/2” thick, stick three thin strips of plywoood in between, one at each end o done in middle. Or just do two ply header, flush up on one side and install 1/2” sheetrock when doing wallboard. Or non-load bearing your pix without that big header up top, cripples just run to top plate.

So what do yu do when it is a 2x6 wall.

You play with plywood and we put up a 2x4. :biggrin2:

 

[bob22]

As my situation is a load-bearing wall (catches the rafters), I should add in the 1/2" of plywood between the 2x6s then?

 

[Nealtw]

As my situation is a load-bearing wall (catches the rafters), I should add in the 1/2" of plywood between the 2x6s then?

Our headers are always 2x10. No plywood or glue, just 3 nails every 16 inches.

 

[bob22]

If the wall height there doesn't allow 2x10, then go to 2x8, etc...?

 

[Nealtw]

If the wall height there doesn't allow 2x10, then go to 2x8, etc...?

Yes, if it were a big roof and you were worried about the load then you would remove one or both top plates of the wall to accommodate the bigger header but usually you are just holding up one rafter and a smaller header is just fine.