DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 47 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
Hello members, As you see in the pictures there are more weeds than grass. I want to kill the weeds and reseed it.
I am planning to use the following concentrated Roundup to kill weeds. Is this the right product?

https://www.roundup.com/en-us/products/lawn-weeds-bugs/roundup-lawns2-concentrate
Yeah, been there done that.

Remember that RU kills growing plants, but won't hit seeds.

So, I'd hit those expletives with RU then wait, then water and see if you get sprouts from seeds. Be patient. May take a while.

Where in LA County are you? I'm near Whittier.

Ask any and all questions, because we here are high on helping. :vs_cool:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8,186 Posts
I would use broadleaf killer if you can buy it in the Kingdom of Kalifornia.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 95025

· Registered
Joined
·
37,499 Posts
To late in the season to be doing this, it should have been done in late winter.
If you want to do something now get some Ortho Weed be Gone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Msradell

· Very Stable Genius
Joined
·
4,667 Posts
If we still had killex/2,4-D I'd use that on a lawn like that.
Since that's no longer available here, RoundUp/glyphosate (and re-seeding)
might be the way to go.
Guess the iron based stuff works......sort of.......maybe just takes more
patience....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, been there done that.

Remember that RU kills growing plants, but won't hit seeds.

So, I'd hit those expletives with RU then wait, then water and see if you get sprouts from seeds. Be patient. May take a while.

Where in LA County are you? I'm near Whittier.

Ask any and all questions, because we here are high on helping. :vs_cool:
Hello Neighbour, I am just 20 miles away, Glendora. Thank you for your response. Appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
And now for the advice, warning, this might get a bit windy. I try to fully explain, instead of being too pithy.
@cprao, looking at your pictures, there's a couple of different approaches you can take. I think the best thing is to find out in more detail what you're out to accomplish.

You've got all the old-buddy weeds that bedevil me at my place. I've got half an acre, so there's a bit of weeding.

I'm an attorney now, but I used to operate a garden shop and one of the things I did a lot of out in Moreno Valley was helping people start lawns, both sod and seed. And, I did a couple of my own from seed, one for me and another for a lady friend. ("If that's not love, what is?")

That fine-bladed grass in your pictures looks like Bermuda grass, which, properly used, is one of the toughest [expletive] grasses. It's tough as Marines and, well-treated, also just as invasive. It will be a nice green carpet, that grows right back from trampling feet, big dog traffic, etc. It also vigorously invades any area it hasn't already.

But BG has a couple of problems, too: (a) it won't grow well in the shade, at all; and (b) it turns brown in the winter for dormancy.

So, my first big question is: do you want to keep the Bermuda Marines of Doom Grass? Or do you want something else?

DON'T get bluegrass; it's much too fussy for here, too hot in summer, way way too much water. If you don't want BG I recommend tall fescue, or, for a spreading lawn in the shade, St. Augustine Grass.

This is going to take some time, but I promise it will be time well spent if you want a nice lawn.

Even if you want the Bermuda grass, you might be better off nuking with Roundup and starting all over.

Tell me your plans, and I'll do all I can to help effectuate them.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
Some further questions and thoughts: What's the situation? Are you going to sell the house? If not, do you have kids and/or big dogs? Are you seeking a manicured look, or just basic but neat?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
717 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Some further questions and thoughts: What's the situation? Are you going to sell the house? If not, do you have kids and/or big dogs? Are you seeking a manicured look, or just basic but neat?
Thank you for all those questions and its important to understand the intent and problem to provide an appropriate a solution.

No, at this time there is no plan to sell. I have kids but grown-up and one dog, not big.

My intent was to either Marathon II or St. Augustine Grass. I had Marathon II 10 years ago and due to lack of maintenance, the lawn has come to this kind of situation now.

Please let me know your thoughts! Your opinion is appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
@cprao

I'll give the low-down on M II and St. Aug.

M II is a non-spreading grass that stays green year round. Mow it high. It has problems with fungus in the summer, which can kill off spots in a newly-seeded lawn. Water it deeply but regularly. Not bothered too much by bugs. Stays where you plant it. Best in full sun for at least half a day. It was touted 30+ years ago as a low maintenance lawn. It isn't. It's better than Bluegrass and, in many ways, better than Bermuda grass. But it needs a lot of care to look good, too.


St. Aug is a spreading grass that can be started by "stolons" or sod. It spreads all over and invades flower beds, etc. It's bothered a lot by insects and fungus; it's definitely a high maintenance grass to keep looking good. If it dies back in a patch, that patch will fill in, often very fast, especially in the summer. St. Aug will take sun or shade; it'll even grow under avocado trees.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
@cprao, to continue, I'd pick either St. Aug or M II, but not both. St. Aug will keep invading the M II over and over again. I knew a guy who did grow both for a while; he had a lawn that had some big trees on it. Eventually, he gave up on the St. Aug and put in a shade-loving groundcover.

In either case, the first step is:

Water and feed everything in the whole lawn you have now. Get one of those Miraclo Gro hose-end feeders and souse the whole thing, weeds and all, with the liquid plant food after a good watering. (Next few days would be good, since it's just rained a lot.)

WHAT? FERTILIZE THE WEEDS?

Yes (counterintuitive, ain't it?) The reason is that you'll be applying Roundup or other glyphosate preparation and it works best when the plants you want to kill are fat and happy and growing fast.

After a few days, you should see the difference. "Weed and feed" won't kill the Bermuda grass you want to kill, and it also feeds slowly. You want to pump them up to kill 'em. Weed and feed has 2/4/D as an active ingredient. For your plant genocide, you'll want glyphosate, found in Roundup, Kleenup, etc.

The other big issue you'll face is weed seeds. If weeds have grown there a while, you're going to have seeds awaiting their chance to pop.

So, after the first kill, water the seemingly bare dirt, then hit with fertilizer again. You want the weed seeds to come up, and if they're there (and they almost always are) up they'll come en masse. When they do, hit them with RU again. Baby weeds die a lot faster than mommy and daddy ones do.

RACE AGAINST TIME

You want, if you can, to get your lawn ready to plant no later than mid-June if you want M II. The reason is that once June Gloom gives way to July Fry, it's going to be very hard to get seedling grass plants started. The problem is that in hot weather you'll have to keep the little plants moist, and the combination of heat and water will cause constant problems with fungus. M II gets it, but it's not too bad in mature grass plants; if their leaves are killed, they grow a new set. Baby grass plants just die and have to be re-seeded.

ON THE OTHER HAND

We might have a later-than-usual cool season this year. I wouldn't bank on that; but if it happens that will be very very much to the good.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
16,406 Posts
Those weeds are short lived and will die shortly. I'd take plugs from the established grass to transplant rather than wasting time on seed that may or may not germinate and all that involved process, even though this is a perfect time to seed a warm season grass with a soil temperature of 60°F or above.

Take a soil sample and check with your extension service for recommendations for fertilizer and water. If the present grass is Bermuda it can spread from plugs as much as 3/4" in 24 hours with the correct conditions so the density of plugs can be somewhat determined from that. By mid August you may be mowing every 5 days.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
Those weeds are short lived and will die shortly. I'd take plugs from the established grass to transplant rather than wasting time on seed that may or may not germinate and all that involved process, even though this is a perfect time to seed a warm season grass with a soil temperature of 60°F or above.

Take a soil sample and check with your extension service for recommendations for fertilizer and water. If the present grass is Bermuda it can spread from plugs as much as 3/4" in 24 hours with the correct conditions so the density of plugs can be somewhat determined from that. By mid August you may be mowing every 5 days.
I wouldn't, given that he wants M II which is available from seed. He wants to get rid of the Bermuda. I'd agree if he wanted to keep it. Oh, yeah. BG is tough stuff.

I've sprouted plenty of grass seed in my time. If I can do it, I know cprao can too.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
If you have any thoughts of growing edibles in the area - fruit trees, herbs, etc... (herbs like oregano and lemon thyme can do well as low growing front yard bushes) - I'd be wary of spraying Roundup in those areas.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
26,264 Posts
If you have any thoughts of growing edibles in the area - fruit trees, herbs, etc... (herbs like oregano and lemon thyme can do well as low growing front yard bushes) - I'd be wary of spraying Roundup in those areas.
I would, too.

On the other hand, "mainline" farmers use tons of the stuff on their GMO crops.
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top