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Kerdi Shower Pan 38" x 60"

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I just ordered a shower pan that is 38" x 60" with an off-center drain. Originally the area to be covered was larger and due to a redesign, the shower pan size needed is now 38" x 43". Would it be ok to cut 17" off the one side of the pan opposite of the drain? I know I could order a pan closer to the size needed but the lead time is several weeks, and I really want to get working on the project.
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It has put a cut one down but there's a much greater risk of it leaking it leaking in the long run. He would probably be better off ordering the correct size and waiting a while to get it.
 

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Naildriver
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IIRC, and @jeffnc will correct, you can cut the pan from front to back in the middle and bring the two pieces back together and use an adhesive to keep them together. The Kerdi membrane will make it waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all of the responses. I don't understand how "cutting from front to back in the middle and bring the two pieces back together and use an adhesive to keep them together" would work for my application. The reason I needed to cut the pan was to accommodate a 17" wide bench. After thinking about it some more, I could build a 'floating' bench between the two stud walls which would allow me to use the pan as is and not have to cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A Kerdi video I watched had the bench sit on the subfloor and the pan butted up against it. I was thinking that I would make my own bench out of 2x4's, plywood top, and surround Goboard all around and then apply Kerdi Membrane to waterproof. Could the homemade bench sit on the shower pan? Or maybe I should stick with the floating bench idea?
 

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Naildriver
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I think when I do my shower I will go with the Teak seat that lets up. We installed one for a client and it looks good and is totally functional.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thats actually a very nice idea on the bench. - I have another question on the shower pan. I had to move the drain from the old bathtub to match that of the Kerdi pan. My rough in measurements unfortunately were off, now I need to figure out how to move my drainpipe over 1/2 inch. You can see where the strings cross is where the center of the pipe needs to be. I had to drill into the floor joist to attach to the main and because of limited space moving the tee is not really an option. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Thats actually a very nice idea on the bench. - I have another question on the shower pan. I had to move the drain from the old bathtub to match that of the Kerdi pan. My rough in measurements unfortunately were off, now I need to figure out how to move my drainpipe over 1/2 inch. You can see where the strings cross is where the center of the pipe needs to be. I had to drill into the floor joist to attach to the main and because of limited space moving the tee is not really an option. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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If it is not glued up you can use a 22.5 degree bend to pull it over and then play around with the trap orientation to get the right location.
As far as the Kerdi pan goes you can cut them to whatever size you need. If it is a centered drain you should cut both sides equally. If you need to lose 10 inches do it 5" on either side. If yours is offset and you need to cut it down 17" in the long direction you would be fine to do it off the end opposite the drain, just know that it will make a slightly larger gap at the bottom of the wall tile on that side. If it is a bench it might not be as noticeable because it is already different. It also does not matter whether the bench sits on the pan or the pan butts to the bench the Kerdi bands work exactly the same in either case. Be aware of your intended bench height depending on which way you do it.
Also, if your drain is off 1/2" in the long direction of the pan you could shave the 1/2" off the plumbing wall side and 16.5 off the far end.

I have done A LOT of research on Kerdi lately, you should use the Kerdi "ALL-SET" thin set mortar. It is the only "modified" thin set they allow and the "un-modified" stuff does not work as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I got the drain to sit in the correct location no cutting of pan necessary. Not sure if I should start a new discussion but I have one more question. I plan on using Kerdi Membrane to water/vapor proof the steam shower. Kerdi recommends regular drywall as tile backer. Problem is membrane water proofs only one side. If leak occurs in piping or valve, drywall that gets wet will turn to mush, making repair more difficult. Question is, can I use Johns Manfield GoBoard as tile backer? Primary reason is availability, light weight, cost and ease to work with. Just want to make sure the Kerdi Membrane will adhere to it properly and that they are compatable.
 

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Naildriver
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If leak occurs in piping or valve
You will have your hands full.

Go Board is an excellent backer. Availability?? Non existent to only a few sheets down here. If it is available, I would say go for it. Some sources advise to use the GoBoard sealing system over the Kerdi. Maybe @jeffnc will have more information. Hang in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Oh yeah, this the fourth bathroom in my house so time is not of the essence here, takes the pressure off. I remodeled three other bathrooms but left shower stalls and bathtubs intact, so remodels were easy. GoBoard is readily available here. Steam shower adds another level of complexity. The problem I have is my suppliers, big box stores, don't sell all the necessary materials for a complete system, just some of them. I tried to find Kerdi Board but had no luck, but they sell Kerdi drain pan and membrane, but they don't sell Kerdi All Set. Really strange in my opinion. I could stick with the regular gypsum board behind Kerdie Membrane as recommended and just be done with it. Just not too comfortable with using regular drywall in a shower. I have sweated copper pipes that are holding 20+ years later so maybe not that big of deal.
 

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So I got the drain to sit in the correct location no cutting of pan necessary. Not sure if I should start a new discussion but I have one more question. I plan on using Kerdi Membrane to water/vapor proof the steam shower. Kerdi recommends regular drywall as tile backer. Problem is membrane water proofs only one side. If leak occurs in piping or valve, drywall that gets wet will turn to mush, making repair more difficult. Question is, can I use Johns Manfield GoBoard as tile backer? Primary reason is availability, light weight, cost and ease to work with. Just want to make sure the Kerdi Membrane will adhere to it properly and that they are compatable.
I personally would not mix manufacturers. That being said, if you are not worried about warranties or other issues than it isn't whether or not the membrane will stick to the board...it is all about the thin set in between. Use one that works for both materials and you should be fine. I am not familiar with Go-board other than the fact it exists, but if it allows modified thin set I would use the schluter "All Set".
 

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Oh yeah, this the fourth bathroom in my house so time is not of the essence here, takes the pressure off. I remodeled three other bathrooms but left shower stalls and bathtubs intact, so remodels were easy. GoBoard is readily available here. Steam shower adds another level of complexity. The problem I have is my suppliers, big box stores, don't sell all the necessary materials for a complete system, just some of them. I tried to find Kerdi Board but had no luck, but they sell Kerdi drain pan and membrane, but they don't sell Kerdi All Set. Really strange in my opinion. I could stick with the regular gypsum board behind Kerdie Membrane as recommended and just be done with it. Just not too comfortable with using regular drywall in a shower. I have sweated copper pipes that are holding 20+ years later so maybe not that big of deal.
You don't have a Floor & Decor? They sell the All-Set, they also usually carry the foam board. Cement board also makes for a much better underlay than drywall to put the membrane on.
 
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