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Discussion Starter #1
Need help in how to get a 7 yr old Kenmore Elite Refrig to stop icing behind the veg drawer. Every 6 weeks, I need to empty the refrig, pull the back panel out, and defrost the coils. I replaced the control sensor, but that did not fix it. Any advice?
 

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Is the defrost timer working? Locate it and notice if the dial moves over a period of time, like 30 minutes for example. They're cheap and easy to replace... plugs in.
 

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If the timer dial doesn't rotate in 30 minutes, turn it slowly CLOCKWISE by hand (or use a flat blade screwdriver) until it make a click sound. That will manually energize the defrost heaters and melt the frost from the coil. After 30 minutes time, rotate the dial again so the compressor can restart and continue cooling. You can repeat that manual sequence daily as needed until you get a replacement timer.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Appreciate your help. After spending a good deal of time looking for my timer, there was none to be found - and I did look everywhere! After doing some additional research, it appears that my timer is part of the control board in back of the refrig. So I am into a new $200 control board, I guess.
 

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That doesn't sound likely that they would have a control board for a household frig. The normal locations for the defrost timer are as stated in this pasted clip below (I highlighted where it may be hiding):

Depending on the model refrigerator that you have, the defrost timer may be located behind the temperature-control panel inside the refrigerator's cabinet, underneath the refrigerator in the compressor compartment or behind the kick-plate below the doors.

Look harder.
 

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Kenmore Elite is actually an LG refrigerator. There is an issue with the heater not running long enough to thaw out the ice and freezing like you describe. The factory repair is a redesigned control board. With that being said I can’t verify that is your problem but it sure sounds like it. Heater should measure about 300 ohms if I remember right. If you’ve already changed the sensor and heater measures correct ohms then the board replacement would be the proper repair. You can’t buy just any board though. If someone had old stock you would wind up with the same issue. We have changed many of them. Really the best way would be to find out if there is a service bulletin on your particular refrigerator. I can’t look up the sears service bulletins. Perhaps someone at sears might be willing to help you out. They will have an updated board part number for the service bulletin. Lg at times use same part number, just upgraded. That’s where you will have to be careful on your pcb purchase. Also we have seen many of those same coils fail after repeated freezing like you describe. Not trying to discourage you. Just trying to help
 
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