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Kenmore Elite Ice Maker Wiring Harness Connection

2171 Views 13 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  bob22, 
Voxman
3
Hello Everybody
Hoping someone out there has a solution to my puzzle concerning my Kenmore/Whirlpool Elite ice maker issue.
I’m trying to remove the ice maker completely and install the new one. However I cannot figure out how the wiring harness plug is disconnected. As shown in photo, the plug is behind a plastic cover. That cover DOESN’T want to come off to allow me to get to the plug connector. I’ve tried squeezing it, rotating it, pulling it, etc. but it won’t budge even though it moves loosely in place. I see no tabs or any other locking mechanism.
I’ve been all over the web looking for a video or instructions but all of them show a different location where ice maker is installed. Thus ice maker is in the door and not mounted in the freezer compartment. The freezer compartment would be an easy 15 minute job since there isn’t anything covering the connector but mine isn’t like that.
The replacement ice maker understandably uses the main plug harness end to connect everything. If I used the other end of the harness then I would have to swap out a few parts from the old ice maker which defeats the purpose of getting a new one.
Hopefully someone out there has experience with this type of installation and can tell me what I need to do to remove the cover over the plug connection.
Thanks
Gary
I’ll post photos ASAP since I’m on my phone and currently don’t have ability to add photos here now.

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Voxman
Model # 106.51173310
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Voxman
Yes that is the plug end that the wiring harness is supposed to be plugged into. The ice maker has 2 plugs....one on each end. The one that is easy to remove would require removal of some parts on the old ice maker which possibly could be defective. Every video I see uses the plug end I can’t remove yet and of course is super easy install when the ice maker is located in the freezer compartment.
I wonder why they would make a direct replacement with a plug connector that can’t be removed easily. I’ll try to post a pic of the new ice maker to show how it comes.
Appreciate your help
Gary
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Voxman
Tried uploading photo of the new ice maker assembly.

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Voxman
Yes it sure does, BUT then I’d have to remove the new harness from it and use the old one that has sensors on it. If it doesn’t work right then I won’t know if it’s the fact I’m using an old part that is causing a problem. It’s just they designed this part to be replaced as a unit with the new sensor.
Do you see the problem if I use the old wiring harness?
Thanks for suggestion but I kinda dismissed that option already. I can’t believe that a technician coming to house to replace ice maker would have to reuse the old harness and sensor. Unfortunately I cannot fathom how the other NECESSARY plug gets disconnected. That cover won’t budge!!!!
Thanks again
Gary
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Voxman
Also I think why would the manufacturer bother putting a new cable harness on the new part if it wasn’t intended to be used?
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Voxman
Well Bob, I got the darn cover off and installed new ice maker....unfortunately 12 hours later there is still no ice being made.
The cover comes off by inserting a hooked scribe tool between the cover lip and the door panel. There are 2 tabs that must be released but comes off easily after that. One thing i didn’t notice was that the new ice maker didn’t include the photoelectric eye sensor so I had to move that assembly to the new ice maker. This didn’t please me at all considering I thought I was getting the complete module for $190.
So now I’m stuck in figuring out the problem. I guess I’ll be surfing the web to get more troubleshooting hints and ideas. I remember seeing a repair involving the wires in the door hinge area...something about the harness wires getting cut over time....and it was a bear to fix according to posters.
I went so far as to test the old ice maker to see if the motor and heater worked...they worked fine. So I’m really puzzled and disappointed it didn’t fix the problem.
Oh well gives me something to do.
Thanks for your help.
Gary
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Voxman
Well Bob and anyone else out there with an inquiring mind...
The problem turned out to be the broken wire (white wire to be specific) down in the door hinge area bottom of freezer. The white wire carries the neutral side of the 120VAC. Very poor design as mentioned earlier. The outer shield was cut through and the white wire was cut as well. Difficult if near impossible to fix properly because there isn’t any slack (one of the reasons it happened). Was able to soldered another short piece of wire to the broken ends and cover with shrink wrap. I’m sure it will happen again but I’ve bought maybe another year or two til next time.
Thanks for your attempts to help.... good luck in your future repairs too.
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