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Discussion Starter #1
If floor joist were too far apart. Is it as easy as installing another joist in between the two that are further apart?

Having two people lift the fitted joist into place and nail it in to the hangar?

Reason being there is a extra support pole in one spot where I imagine is sagging so that's why it's there.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well the joist span 12' across a 2 story house with a basement. There is ranges of sizes from 2x10 to 2x6. The wider boards have big notches in them. I don't know if they went bigger because it's stronger even with the notches in them compared to one that would fit above the pipe?

There's also some skinny logs that aren't as strong as they should be.

The wood is mostly a true 2" but they bounce a fair abit in some spots.

In the pictures also, the beam that runs across the whole house seemed like it had dry rot and termite damage as shown aswell so I just built a 2x6 wall underneath it and installed 2x4 under each Joist because I didn't wanna risk putting hangars in there aswell as there's no room because all of the duct work and other ****.
 

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retired framer
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Well the joist span 12' across a 2 story house with a basement. There is ranges of sizes from 2x10 to 2x6. The wider boards have big notches in them. I don't know if they went bigger because it's stronger even with the notches in them compared to one that would fit above the pipe?

There's also some skinny logs that aren't as strong as they should be.

The wood is mostly a true 2" but they bounce a fair abit in some spots.

In the pictures also, the beam that runs across the whole house seemed like it had dry rot and termite damage as shown aswell so I just built a 2x6 wall underneath it and installed 2x4 under each Joist because I didn't wanna risk putting hangars in there aswell as there's no room because all of the duct work and other ****.
I remember the log. If you can get 2x10s in there somewhere close to 16" OC that would have less bounce than the 2x8s.

It is a little iffy with a wall on the concrete floor with out a footing but if the soil below is solid it will work
If you can't fit a 2x10 in then the double 2x8s would be the way to go.
If you want to tie the sub floor to it you can just uses a 2x2s screwed to the side at the top so you can then screw up into the sub floor. With a good bead of sub floor glue on everythng to make sure you get no squeaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I remember the log. If you can get 2x10s in there somewhere close to 16" OC that would have less bounce than the 2x8s.

It is a little iffy with a wall on the concrete floor with out a footing but if the soil below is solid it will work
If you can't fit a 2x10 in then the double 2x8s would be the way to go.
If you want to tie the sub floor to it you can just uses a 2x2s screwed to the side at the top so you can then screw up into the sub floor. With a good bead of sub floor glue on everythng to make sure you get no squeaks.
Yeah the walls been there for awhile and nothing wrong. And even if I want I can just put up another joist beside a log that's undersized right? Thanks a lot
 

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Sure hope I'm wrong but I'm just not seeing anything done right in those pictures.
Any floor joist laying flat like that no matter what width it is is useless!
Why would someone use what looks like a 2 X 6 and add blocking instead of using the proper sized joist for the span?
No joist hangers for the joist.
Outside rim is rotted out, most likely caused by something very wrong going on outside, and or moisture or insect damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sure hope I'm wrong but I'm just not seeing anything done right in those pictures.
Any floor joist laying flat like that no matter what width it is is useless!
Why would someone use what looks like a 2 X 6 and add blocking instead of using the proper sized joist for the span?
No joist hangers for the joist.
Outside rim is rotted out, most likely caused by something very wrong going on outside, and or moisture or insect damage.
That's just it Joe, nothing is done right really haha.
That beam is in the middle of the basement not the outside of wall but as for everything else yes.
Not the proper sized joist, notches that have are way too big have been made for duct work, no hangars, no will gasket or air tight sealing anywhere, notched ends of logs, plus more
 

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Wow, those notched joists are something! It'd have been better if they'd cored out a hole for the ducting right in the center of the joist.
 
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