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Discussion Starter #1
I have a center beam I put up a few weeks ago. It was done with PT 2x6's. I began to hang the joist hangers every 16" like most do. This is just a project I had on the side at my home.

Im thinking the center beam twisted a bit while in between the time, I put it up and before I got the rest of the joist hangers and joist on one side. I have one side done and still have the other side to do.

The issue I have is that the joist are not seating flush with the beam. The joist sits flush at the top and at the bottom it is out about a 1/8" from the beam, a few maybe 3/16".

How much of a concern is this?
 

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did you use a a block of the joist material for a gauge when you put hte hangers on.. if not your hanger is probably at the wrong height
 

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It should be fine then. The result for that can either be that the beam itself is bent or the joist is cut on an angle. There shouldn't be any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes.

I did use a block of 2x6 as a gauge.

The center beam has a slight twist on it. On one side the joist are 1/4" to 1/8" off on the bottom. On the other side the joist are 1/4" to 1/8" off on the top.

Im not sure what to do here.

I may of put the joist to low on the beam. The reason I believe that is the if I put a straight edge under the center beam it bottoms out on the joist and leaves about a 1/4" gap between the beam and the straight edge.

Maybe I can post some pics.
 

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ok after re reading your original post it sounds like one of two things. .either the beam isnt sitting plumb or the opposite end where the joists are coming from are high so the joists are tipped
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok after re reading your original post it sounds like one of two things. .either the beam isnt sitting plumb or the opposite end where the joists are coming from are high so the joists are tipped

If you set a level on top of the joist, in the middle of them, then it is pretty level.

I was wondering if the outside wall was a little higher myself.

However, Im thinking the beam is twisted some how.

In the pics, the side I have done, the beam seems to be twisted. I mean if you put a level on it, the side the completed joist are on, and run the level north and south, you have to pull the level out at the bottom about a 1/4" to get it level.

On the other side, its pretty much the same, but you have to pull the level out at the top by 1/4" to get it level.

Am I ok here or not?

I intend to install some light fixtures in the joist as well as insulation above and put drywall on the bottom side of the joist to seal up my garage.
 

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I have installed some similar and they passed framing inspection. Just so the back edge of the joist is not shorter than the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom = full hanger bottom bearing. Those appear to be similar to a Simpson double-dome shear hanger: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LUS-HUS.asp

Be careful on the correct length 45* nails, pp. 75; http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/S-INSTALL09.pdf#page=38

The gap to the header will allow seasonal expansion/contraction and still have some shear (though you may not need it in this application).

Gary
 

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by setting the joists on one side of the beam first only your creating a problem.. if theres any deviation on one end where they start to the beam will deflect.. you should work both sides so to keep the beam straight.. in combination with my comment about things not being level it will hit on the top and not be a even joint which pushes on the beam
 

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Outer wall and the center beam either or both may not be straight. You measured one spot and cut them all and get the gap in spots.
Unfortunately, I think you picked wider 2x6 to use as a gauge block. Hangers are below the girder. Above being attic, hangers should've been matched to the bottom of the beam. Repair depends on kind of ceiling, although redoing the joists now may make everything easier later. One less thing to forget later.:wink:
There should be more studs under the beam to support, continuous to the foundation. Triple beam, triple support.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have installed some similar and they passed framing inspection. Just so the back edge of the joist is not shorter than the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom = full hanger bottom bearing. Those appear to be similar to a Simpson double-dome shear hanger: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LUS-HUS.asp

Be careful on the correct length 45* nails, pp. 75; http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/S-INSTALL09.pdf#page=38

The gap to the header will allow seasonal expansion/contraction and still have some shear (though you may not need it in this application).

Gary
Gary

What do you mean by the inside edge of the hanger at the bottom?

That is the correct hangers Im using, from Lowes.

The correct nails Im using. 16 x 3 1/2 and 10 x 1 1/2.

I live in Florida.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
by setting the joists on one side of the beam first only your creating a problem.. if theres any deviation on one end where they start to the beam will deflect.. you should work both sides so to keep the beam straight.. in combination with my comment about things not being level it will hit on the top and not be a even joint which pushes on the beam
I did not know that.

So, do you suggest me finish the project or go back and take the joist out....and work back and forth from opposite ends?
 
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