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Discussion Starter #1
I’m adding an extra bedroom where it was a cathedral ceiling. So far everything has gone as well as it could as I’m not a professional framer and have done most of the worth by myself with exception of lifting some 2x12 ledgers and the GLB in place. I have the subfloor in now. I need to do solid blocking with End nails at midspan and my engineering also calls out CS20 there as well. I’m just unsure how to tackle this. Most of my joist are less than 16 OC due to aligning with lags in the ledger walls. For one. I can’t fit the nail gun in but I’ll survive with a palm nailers. The real questing I’m having trouble answering is. Can I stagger the blocks between joist to allow end nailing which would mean the single CS20 strap would only hit the blocking between on every other joist or does it need to be straight blocking? I’ve attached some progress photos as well as the engineers prints
 

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All of the writing on the right hand side of my engineering documents is basically code, general guidance, nailing schedule etc.... here is a closer picture. I appreciate the picture you provided. The subfloor is already in so I won’t be able to access from the top but with the picture you provided. I can manage to nail that way with a palm nailer.
 

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retired framer
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All of the writing on the right hand side of my engineering documents is basically code, general guidance, nailing schedule etc.... here is a closer picture. I appreciate the picture you provided. The subfloor is already in so I won’t be able to access from the top but with the picture you provided. I can manage to nail that way with a palm nailer.
I would consult who ever will be inspecting. We do bridging which is like a an X between the joists and when plumbers or HVAC knock them out they are just replaced with a flat 2x4. The instruction just says block, it does not say full sized block. When the layout doesn't fit for bridging from the top we just put a 2x4 block at the top. But different areas have different ideas on what is OK.
 

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Am in NJ and not familiar with wind or seismic reinforcements. Not even sure what one length of thin strap will do for you, unless it is little extra to keep the tall wall from bowing out.
As such, you need continuous blocks for nailing since I don't think the edge of each joist will be enough. You can stagger the blocks for easy nailing then add 2x8 or full width blocks to make them a single line, I think. Ask your planner. You may need to ask, also, how to attach the strap to the wall ends.
You probably will need to add 1x furring strips under the joists since strap and the nails will stick out. I don't know if joists can be grooved for the thickness of the strap/nails and blocks can be trimmed.
BTW when nailing, stay away at least an inch from the ends of the blocks to not split it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have an add on to this. The blocking was completed until the last block. A few questions I have.

First. My joist are 2x12 but the ledger is 2x8. Do I do a 2x8 or 12 for the last block.

Second. For the CS20 strap I need to take across all of the blocking. How can I tie the 2x8 in with the difference in height from the 2x12. I know the sheathing on top does most of that work already being end nailed to that ledger but the engineer is showing the strap all the way across. I would like to follow that.
 

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retired framer
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I have an add on to this. The blocking was completed until the last block. A few questions I have.

First. My joist are 2x12 but the ledger is 2x8. Do I do a 2x8 or 12 for the last block.

Second. For the CS20 strap I need to take across all of the blocking. How can I tie the 2x8 in with the difference in height from the 2x12. I know the sheathing on top does most of that work already being end nailed to that ledger but the engineer is showing the strap all the way across. I would like to follow that.
Put a 2x4 against the wall below the ledger level with the bottom of the joists, you need that for drywall on the ceiling anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you. I should have just put a 2x12 as the ledger in the first place and this issue would not have come up. I was worried about how to get the air vent into the joist when I did the 2x8 but realistically I should just let it pump out horizontally
 
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