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I'm doing a small basement rec room, about 20 4 x 8 sheets.

I don't want another half-empty 5 gal. container sitting around the house! :)

Is there one type of compound that will do a good job for each step of the way, or do I need to buy all-purpose for the start and the lighter stuff for the final coats?
 

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Buy the products that will do the best job----

Multipurpose for the tape----then light weight topping compound for the final coat--

Also---powdered easy sand for filling voids and corner bead---the cost will be worth it--
 

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Truthfully, it doesn't have to be the "best" job, just adequate.

I'm trying to avoid buying two products, much less three.
 

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Then just buy a box or bucket of all pourpose mud. call it good end of story.Not the way I do it but if you just want meh good enough get the green lid add about a pint of water mix to a sour cream texture and go for it. If you want to do it right a box of taping mud, then a box of topping mud. still have to add about a pint of water to each and mix well.
 

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Oh and the half empty bucket. you need to look at it as half full. LOL just take the left over to the land fill and call it good.
 

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Thanks Nailbags and oh'Mike!
I just learned something about joint compound from you guys that I didn't know before. No matter how much you think you know...you can always learn more.

Reminds me of a quote from one of my favorite film actors:
"A man's got to know his limitations." --Clint Eastwood aka Dirty Harry
 

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use a 5 gallon bucket of all purpose to set the tape and paper beads if your using paper beads , if you have leftover all purpose just add topping mud to it and use it up on the fill coat , then use straight topping for the finish coat . does not hurt to mix them together so you can use it up .
 

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this is a diy site and homeowners dont want to spend a ton of money on a bunch of different products if they dont have to. i find dust control does ok all around. it sets the tape ok, fills ok and finishes ok. ok?
the proper tested and true way is to prefill with easy sand, set the tape with green lid mud and finish with a premixed topping compound.
 

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this is a diy site and homeowners dont want to spend a ton of money on a bunch of different products if they dont have to. i find dust control does ok all around. it sets the tape ok, fills ok and finishes ok. ok?
the proper tested and true way is to prefill with easy sand, set the tape with green lid mud and finish with a premixed topping compound.
Easy sand has no glue is the mud and the tape will not bond correctly. This is a DIY and proced at your own risk from advice give out.
 

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this is a diy site and homeowners dont want to spend a ton of money on a bunch of different products if they dont have to. i find dust control does ok all around. it sets the tape ok, fills ok and finishes ok. ok?
the proper tested and true way is to prefill with easy sand, set the tape with green lid mud and finish with a premixed topping compound.

dust control is usually the most expensive though . if you don't want extra 1/2 bucket of mud left over just run all your seems extra wide until its used up . take your hawk and trowel and go nuts . skim coat all the sun walls etc .
 

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If by easy sand you mean dura bond hot mud you absolutely can tape with it. If by easy sand you mean like topping or the ultra lite then no you can't tape with it.
 

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this is a diy site and homeowners dont want to spend a ton of money on a bunch of different products if they dont have to.
Yes this is a DIY site. That doesn't mean homeowners are asking how to incorrectly hack together every project in a slipshod manner and how to cut corners and install code violations every step of the way. My assumption is that HO's ask questions when they're facing an issue beyond their DIY capabilities. By doing it yourself, you're already saving a boatload of money. Trying to "save" a few more dollars by screwing up the finish surface of walls and ceilings because a leftover 1/2 pail of mud is "inefficient" is just downright foolhearty.

i find dust control does ok all around. it sets the tape ok, fills ok and finishes ok. ok?
Gee, I wonder why the pros don't do it that way then?
the proper tested and true way is to prefill with easy sand, set the tape with green lid mud and finish with a premixed topping compound.
 

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Drywall mud is so cheap, it would be ridiculous to skimp on it or worry about having a half pail. I'm sure a church, a shelter or another organization would be happy to have the donation if they're doing any remodel work.
 

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there is no code violation for using a different kind of mud. you cant expect a homeowner thats doing a small room to go buy a bag of easy sand, a 5gal bucket of green and a 5gal bucket of a topping mud. i'll tell them what the proper method is and i'll tell them what they can get away with. you can get away with all dust control. you may have a couple tape bubbles and some bubbles in the finish but its stuff that is totally fixable. i wouldnt tell a homeowner to use just 2x4s when the code calls for 2x10s. alots of old pros use only blue cgc for everything and have done it for years.
 

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There isn't a single right way - depending on the pro you'll get different answers. You can certainly start with unthinned AP and do any fills -takes some time to dry, especially if it's a bad hanging job. Then use unthinned AP for bedding paper tape.

Next, thin the AP with 6-12OZ water per pail of AP - the exact amount is judgement in getting the consistency you want to work with. It may be thicker than what a pro would use, because real thin mud is going to drop off an average DIYer' knife before it gets to the wall or ceiling. If you thin it too much for your skills and abilities, you're going to be throwing out the rest of the pail and buying a new one, then thinning from scratch. I'd recommend 6 OZ per full pail for a beginner.

Make sure you wipe your tape down well when you're bedding to get excess compound out from under it - if you hump it up too bad, that pail won't get you through the 20 sheets.
 

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FWIW, I've used AP for all steps in doing a level 5 finish before. If it doesn't crack or have screw pops, and the surface finish is what you're looking for it's all good.

This being winter, I can see AP deep fills taking a long time to dry in a basement.
 
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