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I have too many projects to do (and too little budget), so I'm gonna paint the paneling in a spare bedroom instead of pulling and drywalling. Drywalling might happen in 5 years. I've already put on primer, but will need to put on a coat of oil-based primer. Before I do, I thought I'd fill the V grooves in the paneling. They're about 1/10" deep and 3/10" wide. I've read a bunch of DIY articles recommending the use of joint compound to fill the grooves, a couple suggested wood putty. Just wanted to get the ask if painters are doing this and how effective it is. What do you recommend; joint compound or wood putty? If wood putty, what brand. Thanks.

I'm sanding the grooves now in preparation for one or the other.
 

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IMHO, joint compound- air drying will crack later. Joint compound- chemical drying OR Fix-All will not crack later, at least mine lasted 12 years... my 2 cents, take for what its worth...didn't sand either.

Gary
 
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In my opinion, I would just skip the filling of the cracks. Paneling looks just fine painted, but, let's face it, it is what it is, so, the added effort (and mess) of filling the grooves won't make it look that much better.
 

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In my opinion, I would just skip the filling of the cracks. Paneling looks just fine painted, but, let's face it, it is what it is, so, the added effort (and mess) of filling the grooves won't make it look that much better.
I saw the room with primer on it. Didn't like it. My effort. My mess. Thanks for your opinion.
 

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Don't pull the paneling and then drywall.. Drywall right over the paneling... 1/4" drywall.. right on top... $11 or so a sheet. Not that expensive.. Save ya all kinds of time and effort... seriously.. do it.. easy to extend outlets, switches, etc 1/4".. It's what I did with my paneling..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You could do jc and then use a bridging liner(wall paper)

http://wallliner.com/why2.html
IMHO, joint compound- air drying will crack later. Joint compound- chemical drying OR Fix-All will not crack later, at least mine lasted 12 years... my 2 cents, take for what its worth...didn't sand either.

Gary
Have done several in the past with just joint compound, some cracked some didn't. Might have something to do with the way the paneling was installed.
Doesn't matter, either will look like $hit.
In my opinion, I would just skip the filling of the cracks. Paneling looks just fine painted, but, let's face it, it is what it is, so, the added effort (and mess) of filling the grooves won't make it look that much better.
I used 90-minute mud to fill the paneling grooves yesterday. Two layers. Sanded and wiped down with a wet sponge today. Looks awesome. I was surprised that the joint compound became soft and would wipe right off after 18 hours of hardening if I really worked it.
 

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Well, well, well ....

I've seen paneling covered & painted in rentals. They used joint compound, and it held up better than I ever expected.

My 'project house' had a DIY spray texture applied and painted, which only partly obscured the grooves of the paneling.

In both cases, though, the various joints, and where the paneling met at corners, were obvious flaws. It's definitely a bottom-shelf hack.

I'd advise removing the paneling. :vs_bulb: Even if it's glued on, it's nothing a skim coat of mud won't cover. Using a texture, rather than a smooth finish, will help obscure any imperfections. IMO, a skim coat of mud is one of the great, under-appreciated 'tricks' of the trade.

To do a skim coat, you mix the premixed joint compound with a matching amount of water. You apply it with a thick roller, as if it were a very thick paint. As you apply it, another person follows behind you, either 'back rolling' with a fine roller, or smoothing with a 16" joint blade. When dry, sand slightly. Prime and paint as usual, though I still suggest using a dedicated drywall primer (tinted in a manner similar to the paint ... the primer will seem to have 'half' the color of the finish paint).
 

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I used 90-minute mud to fill the paneling grooves yesterday. Two layers. Sanded and wiped down with a wet sponge today. Looks awesome. I was surprised that the joint compound became soft and would wipe right off after 18 hours of hardening if I really worked it.
90 minute mud should not have become soft after it set. No amount of water should have let it soften. It will even harden under water. The only thing I can imagine letting this happen is the mud was mixed way too thin. Regular pre-mixed joint compound will soften though.
 
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