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· Long-Time DIYer
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How to prime a shallow well pump:
(You need a gallon jug of clean drinking water, a roll of teflon plumbers tape, and an adjustable wrench.)
A. Unplug the pump and remove the largest plug (3/4") on top of the pump head.
B. Wrap the threads of the plug with 2-3 flat wraps of tape clockwise only as the threaded end faces you.
C. Fill the pump head with water, plug in the pump and quickly begin hand-tightening the plug. It will sputter and spew air and water until it is tightened, but that's normal.
D. If it picks up prime, you will hear the pump begin to "labor" a bit. Let it run until it cuts off and then finish tightening the plug with the wrench.
If it doesn't pick up prime (the pump will just sound the same without changing pitch), repeat the entire process, beginning with new tape on the plug until it picks up prime.
Good Luck!
Mike
P.S. This is for an existing well with a check valve on the suction (well) side to hold prime. If it is a new well without a check valve, you are going to have a very hard time trying to prime it.
 

· Water quality'n pump guy
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358 Posts
There has to be a foot valve on the end of the pipe or both pipes going down the well. If the foot valve leaks, you will not be able to prime the pump. You fill the pipe or pipes going down the well as you pour water into the top pf the pump, usually through a plug you remove from the outlet pipe from the pump. If there is a leak between the pump and the foot valve, you will have problems priming and if you do get it prime, then, after priming, the pump will come on (and off if the pum pcan build enough pressure) when you aren't using water and eventually that can ruin a pump. Or if the leak is large enough, the pump won't be able to build enoug hpressure to shut off or, you'll get air in the water.

If there is a check valve above ground, and a bad foot valve on the end of the pipe or pipes in the well, the check valve can hide a leak and it will prevent you from priming the line past the check valve and down the well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We poured the water in the pump and opened the red nozzles. The gauges say 40 on left one and 50 on the right one. Then all the way to the right is a blue one. I don't know what that one is for, I assume for the water to come into the house. When we open it, we turn the sink on and both of the gauges go back down. It has been a aggervating process. I wish someone can please tell me exactly step by step on what to do when primming a well pump by looking at the picture above so you will know what I am dealing with. The first time we had it primed in Jan. 2009 we called a plumber and it only took him 30 minuates to fix it and it was $90 an hour. I can't afford that right now. Please let me know exactly step by step how to prime this well pump and what both gauges should read. Thank you and God Bless
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gary Slusser, is there any way my husband or I can call you sometime today and maybe we can talk and you can explain it to us and maybe guide us through the steps? I seen your contact information on your website. Thank you
 

· Water quality'n pump guy
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358 Posts
I can't see the far end of the pump and the picture isn't very clear.

Is the well on the far right of the picture? If so, the pump and pressure tank are plumbed wrong. It should be the well, the pump, the outlet of the pump to the pressure tank and the outlet of it to the house.

Is there a pipe or two pipes on the far end of the pump other than the one in the picture?

You can call me Saturday after 11:30 am ET.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
out of the ground is a 1 1/2 cast iron going to front of pump,then the pump has a 3/4 line coming out of pump it goes to a t joint to blatter tank then 3/4 to house.
pump,then cut off,then faucet then,t joint then were blatter joins, cut off again, then cut off just before house.

it is a 40/20 pressure switch an 1/2 hourse power pump,what is does the blatter air psi need to,is it 18psi or 38psi
 
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