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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently re-piped copper water lines to my attic. They were under the slab here in Carlsbad, CA. I installed a brass ground clamp on the cold water just prior to entering the water heater and attached a #9 Copper Wire to another brass ground clamp secured to the Hot water line near the water heater. My thinking was that the connectors that attach to the water heater have a rubber isolator on each end of the flex connector making them like a dialectric union. Is this necessary and is it correctly installed? I can email a photo as I do not know how to insert one in this email since I don't have a web sight. Any suggestions are appreciated.
I am fairly well versed in plumbing but not electrical. TIA
 

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What you did is not bad and depending on rest of plumbing system and where it is originally grounded may help to preserve grounding throughout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

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One could argue if the hot and cold pipes need to be bonded together. Bonding (jumping) hot to cold water pipe at the water heater is not required..........

However, some (most) jurisdictions require it.

Seems............. to just jump it and be done with it.
 

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One could argue if the hot and cold pipes need to be bonded together. Bonding (jumping) hot to cold water pipe at the water heater is not required..........

However, some (most) jurisdictions require it.

Seems............. to just jump it and be done with it.
Just wanted to add also, the premises water piping has to be bonded,..... With plastic, dielectrics ... the bond from cold piping to hot piping would bond the hot part of the system...

again, the code doesn't say specifically to bond the cold and hot pipes, but it does mention about bonding the water pipe system.

okay.as you were
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just wanted to add also, the premises water piping has to be bonded,..... With plastic, dielectrics ... the bond from cold piping to hot piping would bond the hot part of the system...

again, the code doesn't say specifically to bond the cold and hot pipes, but it does mention about bonding the water pipe system.

okay.as you were
Yes you are right, a tub or shower valve automatically bonds the hot to the cold. Take care man.
 

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i am not 100% convinced that your two flex lines are isolated from the heater. teflon tape is the only thing on the threads. but, you are bonding both sides, no issue there. taking that bonding down to poco gnd or earth gnd doesnt hurt either. #6 wire would be preferred.
 

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It is common and sometimes required to connect a bonding jumper between the cold inlet and hot outlet of a water heater (It's usually #6 copper , occasionally #4 depending on electrical service amperage.)
 

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a tub or shower valve automatically bonds the hot to the cold.
Assuming someone hasn't replaced a section of copper with CVPC or PEX during a remodel, or after a leak, or something. Bonding the hot & cold at the WH is a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It is common and sometimes required to connect a bonding jumper between the cold inlet and hot outlet of a water heater (It's usually #6 copper , occasionally #4 depending on electrical service amperage.)
Please inform me as to the diameter of #4 and #6 in inches if you can or direct me to a site that will show the dimensions of the diameter. TIA for your suggestions and help. Srloren
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Assuming someone hasn't replaced a section of copper with CVPC or PEX during a remodel, or after a leak, or something. Bonding the hot & cold at the WH is a good idea.
No one has installed any PEX in my system. It is all hard drawn copper Type L above the slab. Thanks for looking.
 
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