[brockmiera]

So I am analyzing the door framed openings in the center retaining wall in my basement. whoever did them didn't remove the double top plate of the framed wall. They simply added jack studs to either side of the rough opening and slid a 4x4 in there for a header.

Now there aren't any doors in the frames so I can't tell if they would stick or bind but is this a common or correct way of framing an opening in a load bearing wall?

30# roof snow load, roof is truss construction spans the entire 26' width. ranch house. Center basement wall supports 2x10 joists spanning 13' each direction.

 

[brockmiera]

Here is a picture of one of them.

 

[paintdrying]

that looks fine.

 

[brockmiera]

So no need to cut out the double top plate when framing under a load bearing wall? I only ask because I'm going to frame a closet door under the same wall. Obviously if I don't have to cut out the top plate and put in a double 2x6 header I wont.

 

[paintdrying]

tear off that paneling and take a good picture would probably get you more replies

 

[BigJim]

You don't cut the top plates when installing a header.

 

[brockmiera]

I can get a better picture tonight. The paneling is gone now so that should be easy. This is just one I had on hand. I'm fine with building a 2x4 / 1/2 ply / 2x4 header and orient it with the strong axis vertical. Would this header hold the two joists that it will span? I'm assuming it will since that 4x4 has been doing it for God knows how long.

 

[joecaption]

Get a measurement on the width of those old studs before making the header.
May need a differant thickness to get it to come out even.

 

[brockmiera]

Here are some pictures. The first two are of the existing opening. The last two is where I need to create an opening for a closet.

 

[brockmiera]

Here is where I'd like the opening to go.

 

[hand drive]

use the stud on the right of your drawing as the jack stud. loosen the wire attached to the right side of the stud and add another new stud to the right where the wire was and that will serve as the king stud. measure down from the underrside of the top plate the amount that the door header will be and cut the jack stud to that height. next, cut free the nails holding the stud to the left of your drawing and add a new king stud to the left of that stud and cut the old stud down to the correct size to be the jack stud for that side of the opening. you will have to cut the stud free and move it because the door size will not squeeze into the opening between the studs as they are 32" center to the center of the stud and you need 34" rough opening in the clear for a 32" door.

so, you will have two new king studs while using the old studs as jacks and a new header...

 

[brockmiera]

That was kinda my thought as well. I should have labeled the drawing better. I'm actually looking to put in a 30" door so my understanding it the R.O. should be 32". Is this right?

 

[hand drive]

30" door will need a 32" rough opening, you will most likely have 30 1/2" between the studs so you'll have to move one stud over 1 1/2" to allow for the new door. hope some of the info posted above helps your cause

 

[brockmiera]

Very much it does. Thanks for replying! The little lady will be happy to know we dont have to take up floor space in this room for an aftermarket closet

 

[kaschmid3]

Rough opening should be 2 1/4 inches wider than door size so a 2' 6" door(which is actually 30 in) u would need a rough opening of 32 1/4 allowing for 2 3/4 jambs and shimming