[tireshark]

Just installed about 50 feet of sectioned gutters for the first time... everything went pretty good, and now i need to add a drip edge. Due to where i needed the downspout, there is a large gap (about 6 inches) between the shingles and the gutters... i had some scrap flashing laying around and cut a small piece to see if you guys think it would work for a proper drip edge.

Most of the drip edges i see have a little lip on the bottom... is that necessary, or would straight piece like this work?

http://i.imgur.com/sULUtdL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FzcKXcS.jpg

I have it pushed up under the shingles about 1.5 inches. It feels pretty secure just pushed up there, but i suppose i could put a few tacks in it (under the shingles) just to be sure.

If i dont need a little lip on the flashing, i can cut it and bend it myself. If it needs the lip, i guess i'll have to use someones brake.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[PatChap]

I would buy a preformed drip edge and run your scrap flashing to extend it down into the gutter.

Looks like you have no overhang on the shingles, may need attention.

 

[tireshark]

Thanks Pat. What's the benefit of using preformed + scrap instead of just the scrap?

 

[Windows on Wash]

Its is build for that purpose and has more rigidity as a result of the creases in the aluminum. I can see that thing that you posted making a bunch of noise in the wind.

I'm still confused as to why the downspout required the gutter be that far down the fascia.

 

[1985gt]

If it's thicker metal you could get away with making it one piece, just bend a 70-80 degree bend in it so it sits flat against the fascia/gutter flange and anchor the gutter through it. You will want the kick on the bottom, helps with the water not backing up and behind through capillary action. If it's thin aluminum like standard drip edge then I would do it in 2 pieces like suggested above.

That does seem like an awful lot of fall for a gutter.

 

[tireshark]

Ok, thanks guys.

The reason there is so much drop in it is because i needed the downspout in a specific location due to drainage issues. The roof line wasn't level, and i didn't want the downspout on the downhill side, so i had to make it drain towards the uphill side of the roof. I started 1/2" from the shingles on the low end, and it took that much drop to get water to drain on the uphill side.

http://s22.postimg.org/drkyahcvl/IMG_9807dfgdfg.jpg

Obviously it doesn't look as good as if it were the same distance from the shingles all the way across, but im hoping it's one of those things where if no one points it out, no one will notice it. I'm going to test it with a water hose when it's done, but ultimately i guess ill find out in the next downpour whether or not it functions like it should.

If there are problems, i suppose i can adjust things, or at worst, slope it downhill with the roofline and deal with the water runoff another way.

 

[PatChap]

How out of level is it? On that short of a run, 3/4-1" of fall is more than sufficient. If you have lots of leaves a little more helps, you don't need a huge amount either way.

 

[craig11152]

Given your minimal shingle overhang I would stay away from a preformed drip edge. If the shingles don't extend a bit past whatever is at the eve water can wick back up hill under the shingles.

Are you in a snow area?

 

[tireshark]

Craig, no i'm not in a snow area.

Well, i cut some strips of flashing and put it up just to see how it would work.

http://i.imgur.com/ITF6KFD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Vxmr5kS.jpg

Worked pretty good, only had a drip or two making it down between the fascia and gutter, which i think i can fix by making the part that slides under the shingles longer in those areas.

Here is a wide shot of how it looks like with part of the flashing up (bricks are only there to keep the flashing in place until i fasten it).

http://i.imgur.com/JR6nR8l.jpg

Adding the flashing makes the gap a little more noticeable, so i'm still considering other options. As long as it functions properly, i guess it doesn't really matter what it looks like... but i might try to do something better anyway, since it's on the front of the house. I watched some videos on dry wells, and that might be something that would allow me to rehang the gutter and slope it down with the house like it should be.

Here's the video about it:

So if i did that i would rehang the gutter an inch below the shingles, move the downspout from the middle to the low end, use preformed drip edge into the gutter, and then install about 20 ft of pvc and a dry well coming off the downspout.

Dont know yet what i will end up doing, but either option is better than nothing. I think the way it is now will function properly (once i adjust the drip edge), so i guess it's mostly a matter of whether or not i want it to look better.

 

[craig11152]

As to other options this might be a bit unconventional but you could score your existing fascia wrap horizontally with a straight blade then just tuck a strip behind that split and in to the gutter. That way you stay away from the shingles all together.

 

[Yodaman]

These may be of some benefit. This gutter also needed a extension,

Pic 1, Shows the flash running under the drip lip, over the trough, but under the hanging bracket. We kept the bracket ht consistent with the help of a block of wood while installing.


Pic 2 shows the whole length with a gradual center crown with ends pulled down about 3/4, This trough is 36.5 feet.

Pic 3 just a innovative way to make a better down spout bracket using the down spout mat'l itself. Cut a section of down spout about 4" long, cut out the seam band and fold the edges in.

 

[tireshark]

Ok i ended up removing the gutters and refastened them so they sloped the other direction, so that i could eliminate the 6" gap. Will be a lot more work to deal with the water runoff in that location, but it looks a lot better now that they are up near the shingles all the way across.

Now i am installing drip edge. The roof line has some issues with short shingles, and sections where the shingles slope up slightly at the bottom... i'm assuming that in this situation, the more drip edge i can get under the shingles the better... correct?

With that in mind i was going to use this preformed drip edge that has about 3" that sticks up under the shingles:

but i didn't like how it had a hump right before it enters the gutter:

So i took some of my flashing and just made one bend in it like this, so it has about 3 - 3.5" to slide up under the shingles:

Here are some pictures of it installed, so you guys can tell me what you think:

Does that all look sufficient?

If so, i have two other questions...

1. I caulked the sections together with painters caulk, and put a rivet in the top bottom... is it overkill to caulk/rivet them, or should i go ahead and do it? Example:

2. It's going to be difficult to fasten them under the shingles... they feel pretty secure just sitting there, since there is so much up under the shingles, but i thought i might put one screw through the front and into the gutter every 8 feet or so to give it some more stability... will this be ok/sufficient? I wont tighten it down, I'll make it so that the screw head just makes contact with the dripedge. Example:

I feel really good about how the flashing was forming and fitting into the gutter... so hopefully it all looks ok. Thanks for any advice.

 

[PatChap]

Is it possible to slide it up further, so that the shingles overhang slightly? Even 1/8" would help. The caulk and rivets arent necessary, but aren't gonna hurt anything.
The stuff you bought is used in low slope Roofing.

 

[tireshark]

Yes pat, i can probably get it back in there a bit more, so that the shingles might have a bit of overhang. Thanks, that is something i had forgotten to ask. I assume that i can push the flashing back very close to the fascia, as long as it still dips down into the gutter, and doesn't touch the back edge.

Do you think a screw into the front of the flashing every few feet will work to secure it?

 

[PatChap]

Yeah face screws will hold it , if possible ide rather nail it down though.
Try lifting the tabs and nailing it through the starter, might be a little easier. If you go this route nail it roughly in the middle of the tab.

 

[Yodaman]

Drip edge ideally is attached directly to the plywood. Under the the starter course and under any felt paper or other underlayment. If you install the drip edge over the starter course any water that seeps through the first course seams will most likely run under the drip edge.
If you can access the plywood without damaging the shingles you might want to try a structural adhesive. If not a sheeter screw with a rubber washer into the face.

 

[craig11152]

depending on how old your shingles are and how easily the seal breaks apart removing the bottom course and starter to install the metal drip edge properly is not overly hard. I think you said 50 feet and not snow country.

 

[carpdad]

Flashing expands and contracts, so it's better just overlap and not fasten them together.