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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
There is a closet under the stairs in my basement and I want to move the door to the adjacent wall pictured. (note, the current door opening is in a wall that looks identical to the one in question and it does not have a header). The wall In question is parallel with the joists but one of the studs is close to the end of stairs, which concerns me. Also, the joists are parallel but the top of the wall in question seems to have its own joist (it isn’t just an open cavity above the wall, there is a large hoist type of wood plank that goes all the way up) - Is this wall load bearing? Even if it is not load bearing, should I put in a header just in case (due to the proximity to the stairs)? Also, the door I want is a 30x78” glass door, so it is quite heavy and may need a header?... furthermore, an election will be removing the outlet (silver pipe looking thing) and the telephone line (wire just dangling all scary)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are some photos of to the left of the wall in question & of the wall with the closet door currently in place (thank you so very much for your help!!)
 

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· retired framer
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Here are some photos of to the left of the wall in question & of the wall with the closet door currently in place (thank you so very much for your help!!)
There are two ways you can have that timber at the top of the stairs.
1. hang it from a double joist on each side of the stairs.

2. put a bearing post under each end.


If it was meant to to have bearing under each end, it would have 2 full length studs where you have little spacer blocks

It would be nice to see more of the ceiling structure but I think there is nothing important here. But if you wanted to be absolutely sure you could put 2 studs where the spacer block is.
 

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Your image 3, post 1, should work. It is existing stairs and should have a stair well framing which uses a beam on the opposite side. Maybe this beam rests on the steel beam which is usually used for main mid beam of a house. If it is outside door you're making, new framing should use pt lumber against any moisture damage. Also check to make sure that steel beam is resting on good foundation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How should I temporarily support the area while cutting out the doorway? Do I need to build a temporary wall on the other side? Or do I need to focus more on supporting the end of the staircase?... also, is a sandwiched 2x6 with a 1/2” plywood middle a good header or should I do a 2x8? This is a basement door with a second story above (no walls are above this wall) I Thank you for all of your help!!
 

· retired framer
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How should I temporarily support the area while cutting out the doorway? Do I need to build a temporary wall on the other side? Or do I need to focus more on supporting the end of the staircase?... also, is a sandwiched 2x6 with a 1/2” plywood middle a good header or should I do a 2x8? This is a basement door with a second story above (no walls are above this wall) I Thank you for all of your help!!
I don't think you have to hold anything up. I think it was there and then this wall was filled in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wonderful! I honestly cannot thank you enough for your advice! My husband is an ER doctor working weeks at a time during this crisis, so my dad and I are going to surprise him with a glass door to a cool beer and wine cellar (aka under the stairs closet haha!) We will tackle it this weekend! Thank you for your help!!
 
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