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soaker tub and backsplash, kitchen backsplash, Var fixes around the house.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI,
I want to use a 2 gang box for a single double stack switch and cover one side and drywall over it... or tile over it anyway. I have all the parts to replace it, but it would be so much easier if I could just close one side and tile over it.

Has anyone seen anything like this? (M:cool2:eek:st likely it would just have holes to screw in where the old switch would screw in?)
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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I wou,d use 2 regular switches instead of the stacked switch.
+1 IMO using a stacked switch is a last resort. Difficult to turn on the right circuit as the switch moves horizontal instead of the normal vertical. Even if it is compliant (which I doubt), it will make future work difficult.

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HI,
I want to use a 2 gang box for a single double stack switch and cover one side and drywall over it... or tile over it anyway. I have all the parts to replace it, but it would be so much easier if I could just close one side and tile over it.

Has anyone seen anything like this? (M:cool2:eek:st likely it would just have holes to screw in where the old switch would screw in?)

you didn't mention if the 2 gang box is a switch box or a junction box. If it's a junction box you can mount an offset mud ring. Garvin Industries have them.






Using two individual switches to take up the 2 gang box will give you the best adaptability for the future.
 

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Another vote for two separate switches. Depending on how many cables are in the box, code may not allow it to be smaller.

I can't see how it's easier to change to a single gang or to mud over half the box. Tiling over half the box could be a real headache for any future changes.
 

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Premium Member
soaker tub and backsplash, kitchen backsplash, Var fixes around the house.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Could you not use a flat mud ring and mud over the edges? https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-Square-Single-Device-Mud-Ring-Flat-787/100686866

If it doesn't recess enough to plaster over, mount your switch in one side and use a receptacle/blank combo cover plate.
The existing box does not have the screw holes on the corners for that and I was hoping to use the left gang.

I wou,d use 2 regular switches instead of the stacked switch.
and
+1 IMO using a stacked switch is a last resort. Difficult to turn on the right circuit as the switch moves horizontal instead of the normal vertical. Even if it is compliant (which I doubt), it will make future work difficult.

The point is to use less cover plate sq inches over the backslpash tile. Too much plate coverage would be ugly and detract from the kitchen.

The existing switch plate one goes past my tile line about a half an inch... (I want to follow the cabinet edge straight down so it will have to be moved anyway... unless I can cover up the right gang and tile over it.

I was thinking the same thing though... using a single would make future work difficult. However I am using a 2 gang with 2 double stacks on the entry wall for 4 sets of lights, so they would kind of match... The boxes will be compliant in ref to ci. as it stands I have two options:
I have a 4x4 box (like a 52171 vn) with single gang plate (centered) to use (I have both plastic or metal)
a Carlon RD30-6R.


you didn't mention if the 2 gang box is a switch box or a junction box. If it's a junction box you can mount an offset mud ring. Garvin Industries have them.

Using two individual switches to take up the 2 gang box will give you the best adaptability for the future.
I have not seen an offset one yet. Thanks... Currently I have a dual gang switch box.

Maybe you guys are right, I should just move the box and keep 2 switches, however on the other wall I will need 4 so a dual double gang sounded like a good idea. (Hence the continuity as the switches in the kitchen would match.) A third option would be 4 gang and 2 gang. or 2 - 3 gang boxes. But that is quite a bit of real estate over the tile.

If there is something I have not considered please let me know. There is one other thing about decora style, which is the finger prints suck. still black or bronze plates are going to get dirty.

Thanks for all the comments so far.
 

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soaker tub and backsplash, kitchen backsplash, Var fixes around the house.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This type of box may help you decide how you want to go.
They come in 2 gang, 3 gang and so on.
Hi,
The single gang only has 18.5 and 22.5 ci. (Their double gang is 38 ci.) but the box still needs to be moved to the left so it does not go past the tile line, so there will be holes that need patching.

To double stack the two independent circuits for the Dishwasher and Insinkerator... it was calculated in another post to require 27ci. Thanks AlanJ.
You will need to recalculate the box fill ...equals 27 ci. box needed (USA standards).
So my choices are:
  • stick with 2 switches (or 1 and 2) and use a double gang
  • Use a 4"x4"x2.125" junction box in metal or pvc w/single gang mud plate
  • use the Carlon RD30-6R (a large single gang w.30ci )

You all have raised concerns about future mods.. so I am flirting with the idea of moving the switch for the cabinet lights to the cabinets ( I could have one regular switch and 1 double stack for the DW and Insinkerator.)

Then put a triple decora switch for the Kitchen, bar pendant, and chandelier lights.

The whole purpose was originally to minimize face plates on the tile.
(That was long winded, but took way to long to reword and minimize)
 

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soaker tub and backsplash, kitchen backsplash, Var fixes around the house.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Use an air switch for the disposal.
Thanks for the suggestion Jim. We looked at that and decided we did not want to cut another hole in the granite, or have the button where a future resident or bubble headed friend could turn on the disposal with their hand it in... or face over it in case something spits out.
 

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The same incident could occur with the wall switch. I believe the air switch can mount inside the cabinet. A regular switch could go in the cabinet.
 
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