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Hi I believe my main load center is missing a bonding screw. Can anyone confirm? Or is the bonding screw supposed to be removed.

The neutral and ground are bonded in the meter pan. Then I have 3 wires coming into the main load center. 2 hot, 1 neutral. The ground wire on the left neutral bar attaches to a copper pipe. There is separate ground bus bar installed on the right.

Below are some pictures.
 

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From what I can see, the green bonding screw is missing and needs to be installed. Your buss bars are connected to each other by the yoke.
 

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I don't see a bond screw in the panel. I do see what appears to be some white wires connected to breakers. Perhaps the picture color isn't rendering correctly but they sure look like white wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
From what I can see, the green bonding screw is missing and needs to be installed. Your buss bars are connected to each other by the yoke.
Ok thank you. I’m having a hard time finding that panels specific bonding screw. Can I run a ground wire from the ground bus to the neutral bus?
 

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I don't see a bond screw in the panel. I do see what appears to be some white wires connected to breakers. Perhaps the picture color isn't rendering correctly but they sure look like white wires.
Yes the wiring is from the 50s. The white wires are being used for 240 volt water heater, dryer and HVAC.

The other whites are on arc fault breakers.
 

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Ok thank you. I’m having a hard time finding that panels specific bonding screw. Can I run a ground wire from the ground bus to the neutral bus?
No need of that.. it's already connected by that yoke you see at the top under the buss bars going from side to side.

You still need the screw. I'd think any 10-32 screw of the proper length will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok thank you. I’m having a hard time finding that panels specific bonding screw. Can I run a ground wire from the ground bus to the neutral bus?
No need of that.. it's already connected by that yoke you see at the top under the buss bars going from side to side.

You still need the screw. I'd think any 10-32 screw of the proper length will do.
On the right side there is a grounding bus bar installed. It’s hard to see. Here is a better picture. Thanks for the help! I’ll pick up a screw from the local hardware.

Out of curiosity could I run create the bond by running a ground wire from the ground bus to the neutral bus?
 

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Knowing how picky inspectors and insurance companies are, you will need to use the bonding screw. What you are suggesting is probably better from some aspects but it's not what was approved when the UL sticker was put on the panel.

It's amazing what can hide in a picture... the new shot clearly shows a ground terminal strip. I was wondering when the code changed and allowed the neutral terminal strip and the ground terminal strip to be bonded almost permanently from the factory! :surprise: I was beginning to think my old lying eyes were playing tricks on me! Thanks for the new pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Knowing how picky inspectors and insurance companies are, you will need to use the bonding screw. What you are suggesting is probably better from some aspects but it's not what was approved when the UL sticker was put on the panel.

It's amazing what can hide in a picture... the new shot clearly shows a ground terminal strip. I was wondering when the code changed and allowed the neutral terminal strip and the ground terminal strip to be bonded almost permanently from the factory!
I was beginning to think my old lying eyes were playing tricks on me! Thanks for the new pic.
Much appreciated! Thanks again 🙂
 

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Your Neutral is already bonded at the meter. You should actually remove that #8 solid copper from the neutral buss. It should connect to the grounding bus. They should be separated in your panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your Neutral is already bonded at the meter. You should actually remove that #8 solid copper from the neutral buss. It should connect to the grounding bus. They should be separated in your panel.
Hmm, if I’m going to bond the neutral and ground, via bonding screw, in the main panel, do I have to keep the neutrals and grounds on separate bus bars? It’s my understanding that for sub panels they should be separated.
 

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You are correct that only sub panels need separation of neutral and ground. The 2 should be bonded together. You still need the grounding electrode conductor to be on the neutral and #4 in size for 200 amps.
 

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Some poco's require the neutral ground bond at the meter pan, and treat the main as you would a sub panel with four wire feed and separation. Ask your local inspector before you change the configuration
 

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Your creating multiple paths to ground. You are Bonded at meter,Using conduit as your EGC It needs a Bonding bushing on incoming conduit. Then a #4 ground wire from bushing to ground bar. then a #4 for your Supplemental ground ( Water pipe ) to ground.
 

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Putting a bond bushing on the feeder conduit might be a problem in this particular installation. The feeder conduit didn't find its way into the panel.

It just goes to show once again that there's more than one way to skin a cat.

I suppose proper grounding will continue to be an area where local AHJ's will often have their own ideas about how to do it properly regardless of how clearly it is outlined by the NEC. Since the NEC isn't really law (if not adopted as such by the local AHJ) but only a suggested minumum safety standard, it's always best to ask when doing work in a new jurisdiction. It's definitely one of the "gotcha" things to be aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Putting a bond bushing on the feeder conduit might be a problem in this particular installation. The feeder conduit didn't find its way into the panel.
There is metal conduit going from the meter to the panel through the cinder block.

It’s hard to see.

Do I need a bonding bushing inside the panel?
 

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I see a lock washer and plastic bushing on incoming 2" conduit . what do u mean incoming conduit (didnt make it) As I see it the conduit is the ground from meter to breaker panel.being concentric its a ( dirty connection and needs a grounding bushing an a bonding wie to ground bar
 

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I wasn't able to blow it up enough but it looked like the conduit was stopping short and the hole in the panel was larger than the conduit. Even the blow up posted looks that way but it's probably entering a concentric KO (requires metal insulating bond bushing and bond jumper) and that's what was evidently fooling my old lying eyes.
 

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The concentric KO's are famous for tearing out so the code requires bonding around them.

NEC Section 250.92(B) is applicable to bonding at services, and in part states, “Bonding jumpers meeting the other requirements of this article [Article 250] shall be used around concentric or eccentric knockouts that are punched or otherwise formed so as to impair the electrical connection to ground.” For services, this confirms that bonding jumpers are required unless all concentric or eccentric knockouts have been removed.
 

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