[tstex]

Hello to all,

When we flush the toilet, it empties fully, but it's like the cut off valve is turned in CW all the way bc no water is coming into tack (cut off valve is all the way open). Have to keep flushing to finally get the tank to refill.

Below is a pic of what I have in the tank. I recall a link someone posted on how to remove the cap, then flush the top of sediment. Since that post, I've had 2 girls enter college (still there) and everything's kind of been a blank $ince then.

Can someone pls refresh my memory on how to get that water flowing again?

Thank you very much,
tstex

 

[ZTMAN]

Turn the water off

Hold the stem with one hand, turn the cap counter clock wise with the other.

Put a cup over the top, turn on the water supply to flush.

Turn the water off

Reinstall the cap

You can also go on FluidMasters website or youtube to see how it is done

I would tell you to go buy a three pack at HD, but with two kids in college, every penny counts.

 

[jmon]

Yes, definitely try the z man's suggestion first. That may be all it needs, seen it before.

If no help, turn off supply to toilet, remove supply line from tank, aim into bucket, turn water on and see if you have good pressure. If not, replace supply line. If good water pressure, replace fill valve about 8 bucks at any big box store.

I hope it's as easy fix for you tstex and all it needs is a sediment flush out.

 

[tstex]

Thank you Z-Man, this is exactly what i needed...I did replace all four guts about 1-2 yrs ago, but Houston had a HUGE 8-9 ft ID water main break from Lake Houston that supplied about 75% of the City and I think the crud finally made its way here -

these are pretty new guts installed so I will try flushing - if no-go, then I'll buy one and tell the girls to forego a meal one day

 

[tstex]

Thanks JMON too...here's an update,

Did the complete flush, but I noticed that when I removed the cap [and the shutoff valve all the way turned in, that a little water was still coming up out of the fill-valve tube.

I put cup over top of fill valve w cap gone, opened valve and water flushed out real well. I inspected everything and no sediment or crud anywhere. Put cap back on and opened valve and no water flow; closed shut off valve again, open it again and water started to fill tank again. flushed handle and water emptied, but nothing happened w water coming in and float was low at emptied water line...when I lifted up on float, water started coming back in,,,at that point, I just stopped and here we are.

Suggestions? thank you

After rereading your post JMON, I will try flushing the line into bucket then post back, thanks, tstex

 

[tstex]

****UPDATE*****

I tried flushing the supply line and major cluster !!!! I had great pressure but when I tried turning off the supply line, it did not turn all the way off...so I thought if I opened it up all the way, I might blow out something at the cut-off valve. Opened all the way and it came out real strong, so I immediately turn shut off valve all the way in and it was like I only had it closed half way and water was pouring out supply line...I had to run outside and turn off main line to house...by the time I had come back in, bucket had filled and X was flowing out of bathroom...I now have what's in the lines coming out but i would say I have a bad cut-off valve, correct?

Thanks and my house is w out water so a timely reply would really help - thanks

 

[jmon]

Yes, I agree. Sorry to hear that. Until you can replace the supply valve and fill valve, you will have to put supply line back on to toilet tank, put fill valve back together again and turn your water back on and do what you been doing. At least you will have water back to house.

They sell easy push-on sharkbytes supply valves at any big box store. Just turn off water, cut the old one off and push new one on. Watch a couple utube videos

 

[ZTMAN]

Yikes.

Sounds like you are ready for some new parts.

 

[tstex]

Well, I had the water turned off and the 2nd story copper pipes continued to leak via the toilet supply line - I opened every down stairs cold faucet to increase the flow rate and opened a few faucets upstairs to prevent air lock

The cutoff valve was a 1/2" copper compression set up and I had to try a few things to free up the cut off valve from the copper line.

Went to HD & got the replacement parts to get water flowing again. My wife was coming hm from a funeral so I had to hump it...once I got it all put back together, I turned on the water and nothing leaked, thank the Lord. Once I purged all the lines, I flushed the toilet and the daxm thing did not refill, so it was a bad refill tube the whole time!!!! But, I did replace a bad shutoff valve and went the 1/4 turn style vs the older oblong knob you have to turn 4-5 times.

Ill buy a replacement kit tomorrow / thanks for everyone's help & any comments/suggested welcomed - tstex

 

[ZTMAN]

Should be a straight forward swap.

Buy the three pack of fillers. Seems like you always need one when the stores are not open

 

[jmon]

Well, I had the water turned off and the 2nd story copper pipes continued to leak via the toilet supply line - I opened every down stairs cold faucet to increase the flow rate and opened a few faucets upstairs to prevent air lock

The cutoff valve was a 1/2" copper compression set up and I had to try a few things to free up the cut off valve from the copper line.

Went to HD & got the replacement parts to get water flowing again. My wife was coming hm from a funeral so I had to hump it...once I got it all put back together, I turned on the water and nothing leaked, thank the Lord. Once I purged all the lines, I flushed the toilet and the daxm thing did not refill, so it was a bad refill tube the whole time!!!! But, I did replace a bad shutoff valve and went the 1/4 turn style vs the older oblong knob you have to turn 4-5 times.

Ill buy a replacement kit tomorrow / thanks for everyone's help & any comments/suggested welcomed - tstex

Glad it all worked out for you tex. nice job.:thumbup:

 

[tstex]

Hey Guys

Replaced the fill-valve and she's good as new. However, I noticed that some water drips periodically from the cap of the new fill valve - brand new??? Is this defective? Bought the 3 pak so if bad, guess I return them all

also enclosed pic of new 1/4 turn cut off valve, and fill valve too

Thanks to all

 

[SeniorSitizen]

****UPDATE*****

Opened all the way and it came out real strong, so I immediately turn shut off valve all the way in and it was like I only had it closed half way and water was pouring out supply line...I had to run outside and turn off main line to house...by the time I had come back in, bucket had filled and X was flowing out of bathroom...

It makes a person wonder why caps/plugs aren't more readily

available for emergencies like this? At least we could have water while shopping for parts the we were unaware of we needed.

 

[tstex]

It makes a person wonder why caps/plugs aren't more readily

available for emergencies like this? At least we could have water while shopping for parts the we were unaware of we needed.

I've never had a brand new cap/fill valve leak like that...It mainly leaks right after filling up and turning off, then drips water for a bit

 

[SeniorSitizen]

It makes a person wonder why caps/plugs aren't more readily

available for emergencies like this? At least we could have water while shopping for parts the we were unaware of we needed.

***************************************************

If we had on hand a cap to cap the leaking valve or a plug to plug the hose at the opposite end, at least when near disaster strikes we could have water while going to get replacement parts which we didn't know we would need. Or in some instances if a long round trip for parts maybe next week if we had 2 toilets. I've ask for those Caps / Plugs in plumbing departments and usually get the deer in headlamp confused look.:biggrin2:Maybe I don't know the correct language?

 

[tstex]

Sr, when I went to HD, I lucked out and found a really good guy. He suggested not only the qtr-cut-off valve, but recommended I go w one that did not have the supply line already connected to it. this way if the line goes bad [or the cut-off valve], you replace one or the other but not forced to replaced the whole thing if only one thing goes bad.

If I was not putting this house on the market in the next month, I would replace the other 3 toilets shut-off valves too, and doing so all at the same time [when the girls are on a road trip and water was not needed all the time]. Draining the copper lines in a 2-story 4422sqft house takes a long time.

Does anyone believe that if you do not use those shut-off valves regularly, they tend to have issues when you do use them. I think sediment builds up in them and the rubber washers go bad too.

One final thought, if you have kids [my daughters are all 17+ now] I would show them where the main water shutoff valve is to the whole house.

happy plumbing, tstex

 

[SeniorSitizen]

My wife wasn't interested in knowing where the water shut off was until I was 7 hours away and this 1/4" ice maker line failed where it went through drywall.:surprise:That was 14 years ago and she refuses to refresh her memory although it's nothing but flipping a breaker off. But OMG, that's outdoors.

 

[tstex]

My wife wasn't interested in knowing where the water shut off was until I was 7 hours away and this 1/4" ice maker line failed where it went through drywall.:surprise:That was 14 years ago and she refuses to refresh her memory although it's nothing but flipping a breaker off. But OMG, that's outdoors.

:vs_mad: on the breaking line to ice maker

:vs_laugh: on your wife not wanting to do anything

you must have a water-well re breaker...when the breaker to my water well flips, I still get water but just at a decreasing rate until the tank is empty/psi = 0

 

[SeniorSitizen]

:vs_mad: on the breaking line to ice maker

:vs_laugh: on your wife not wanting to do anything

you must have a water-well re breaker...when the breaker to my water well flips, I still get water but just at a decreasing rate until the tank is empty/psi = 0

Yes, that's our system except I've installed a 30 gal. water heater tank as a sediment tank and that allows a little more reserve. I shut it down anytime we're away for a length of time being I don't need to see furniture floating up from the basement when I get home.

 

[tstex]

Sr, do you live in the country or a grand-fathered well that the city has encroached on you? I agree on shutting off well if gone a long time...

My 40 gal propane heater is cased-in and cannot be seen from the kitchen. The water line line from WH to kitchen sink is about 15-18 ft so it heats up quickly. I drain my WH 1-2 times per year when the weather is nice so I can run a hose from kitchen to yard...