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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The sales guy at the lumber store talked me into using 1x6 Ipe decking instead of the thicker 5/4x6. The samples of 1x6 seemed strong enough when I jumped up and down on them. The joists are 16o.c. The 1x6 would be cheaper and easier to work with. Are there other considerations before I place the order?
 

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ovahimba.....where do I start.

1. 1x6 is fine on 16"centers.
2. Make sure you order Anchor Seal. Its a liquid wax emulsion that must be painted on every crosscut. Otherwise the ends start to check, and pretty quickly.
3. If you have the funds get the IPE handrail as well. Very nice and extremely sturdy.
4. Have you decided on a fastening system yet? I've used Ipe clips with good success but you either have to cut slots for them or order the flooring pregrooved. I have also face screwed thru counter bored screw holes and then filled them with Ipe plugs. There are some newer hidden systems that I'm not familiar with.
5. Put a new blade in chop saw.
6. Where a mask if the dust bothers you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. I will probably face screw them. The deck has a irregular shape, and this will be my first time using the material, so I like the idea of being able to lift up any board to correct mistakes. If my house were worth 2 mil I probably wouldn't like screws showing. My main attraction to the material is durability and low maintenance. I'll check out the ipe hand rails.
 

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ovahimba...strictly a matter of personnal preferance. Make sure you predrill....well actually you have to predrill and then countersink the hole for the head of the screw. You'll find that trim head stainless screws have a smaller profile than regular deck screws and are'nt nearly as obtrusive. Personnaly, I like it coated with a UV inhibitor, really brings out the color. But I have several customers that let it go grey, and thats a good look to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for sharing the photo 12penny. I might try the inhibitor in the beginning. I can always get lazy later and let it turn gray.

Actually another important reason I am using the thinner 1x6 is I miscalculated the height of the ledger. 5/4x6 is a bit too snug. Any flexing or swelling of the wood components if I use 5/4 might cause problems around the sliding glass doors.
 

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So I have been trying to figure out everything I need to know about installing an Ipe deck and still have a few questions.

1) What is the best sealant to use? I have heard of so many different products that my head is spinning.
2) Is it necessary to finish both sides of the boards?
3) Do the Ipe Clips work well? I read one report on another board that these can fail.

Your feedback on these questions is much appreciated.
 

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the Musigician
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Make sure you order Anchor Seal. Its a liquid wax emulsion that must be painted on every crosscut. Otherwise the ends start to check, and pretty quickly.
i did not use anything but boiled linseed oil on my porch, tops and edges and have had no checking at all.... you sure that's a necessity in all areas?

DM
 

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Penofin works great too. In addition the end cuts need to be coated in a wax like substance to keep them from splitting. There are several products out there and one has already been mentioned.
 

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i did not use anything but boiled linseed oil on my porch, tops and edges and have had no checking at all.... you sure that's a necessity in all areas?

DM
DM...sorry my response is late. Just back from a much needed vacation. The first time I used Ipe, it was recommended that I use Anchor Seal and I've been using it ever since. I suppose if the ends are sealed, with anything, that it would delay the appearance of end grain checks that this species is noted for. At somewhere around $15 a quart can, the wax isnt cheap, so if you've had good luck with linseed oil then stick with it.
 

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the Musigician
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it's possibly because of it's age, it's on the northeast side so little direct sun, and i do the edges with the oil as well....
or simply a combination of all 3? Po)

DM
 

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Should the bottom side be sealed, as well?

So I have been trying to figure out everything I need to know about installing an Ipe deck and still have a few questions.


2) Is it necessary to finish both sides of the boards?
I would also like to know the answer to this question, as I am about ready to fasten down 500 sq ft of 5/4" Garapa using DeckMaster brackets.
 

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hi geordon, i would highly recommend doing both sides, yes.

DM
Thanks for the quick reply.

Would it be okay to seal the bottom side as I go with Penofin Bronze then flip the board rightside up? Then after the entire deck is installed, do the surface all at once? I am thinking this way I wouldn't be sealing lumber I may not use or the cutoffs.
 

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Actually, doing it board by board is going to take a lot of time and a lot of space. It takes a number of hours before it can be handled, that is the Penofin I am talking about. Just make sure to seal the ends with wax, then when you are done, finish off with Penofin. You usually apply heavy and then wipe off after 15 to 20 minutes. If you leave it on and don't wipe it will be sticky and take a few days to cure and won't look right. Don't wait too long because the board will grey after a few weeks. Of course you can always sand them down and they will look brand new but why go through the extra work. Finishing off the bottoms is really unnecessary IMO. Ipe will last forever, even untreated. Treatment is mostly to bring out the beauty of the wood unlike some other decking materials.
 
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