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Interior Basement Waterproofing Approaches - WaterGuard Vs. Schedule 40 Drain tile

22733 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  stadry
I am considering the Waterguard system and have also obtained a competitive quote from a reputable sewage contractor that is locally owned and operated for 60 years who recommends a more traditional interior perimeter drain system. I am torn between the two systems and would appreciate any experienced or educated thoughts on what approach is best. I will highlight the differences of the two systems I am considering:

I won't go too much into the details of the WaterGuard system as it best described and highlighted here:

The local contractors system is the following: They SAW cut the floor back a full 18" from the wall (as opposed to waterguard jack hammering 6" back). They drill holes in each block and place a thick hard plastic "waffled" sheet against the wall to catch wall seepage and direct the water down below the slab to their drain tile system (this sheet rises vertically up above the slab about an inch and performs the same job as the vertical plastic tab on the waterguard system, i.e. capturing water that potentially seeps through/runs down the wall). They will not, and do not recommend installing the tile on the footer itself and claim such systems are not effective in handling anything but wall seepage. Instead they install schedule 40 PVC drain tile deeper and to the inside of the footer (hence why they cut the floor back 18" as opposed to waterguard jackhammering only 6" from the wall). This, I am told, addresses the water table directly, while still capturing the seepage from the walls. They place 4" of gravel below the drain tile, and then place additional gravel on top of the drain tile up to the base of the existing slab. They then re-place new concrete.

Price is not a consideration as I just want the best system. Both sump pits and pumps are equal as is the discharge and handling of the water once it is pumped away. The only differences is the location of the drain tile and the style/design/material of the drain tile (WaterGuard on top of the footer vs Sch. 40 PVC drain tile deeper and alongside the footer).

Essentially, if there are any sewer/water handling specialists reading this, what system would you want to be installed on your home? Please advise if you have any questions, concerns, or need anything clarified... Thanks!
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The water table is artifically lowered to the level of the perforated drain pipe. So if the drain pipe is below foundation footing level then the water table can be lowered below foundation footing level. This lowering is effective only a few feet from the air pocket (the drain pipe) so the drain pipe must run all the way about the foundation.

The deeper drain pipe is 18 inches in because you may not excavate the dirt that deep, below the foundation footing level, close to the footing. Otherwise the footings can move and the foundation walls can crack and collapse.

The not-so-deep drain pipe right up against the footing does not have much vertical wiggle room to have a good slope towards the pump pit. (It will still work without much slope although the flow into the pit will be slower resulting in more frequent pump turn ons and shorter pump run times.)

After the system has been in operation for a few weeks and the water flow into the pit is not fast and furious, I don't think it matters whether you go with the deeper pipe 18 inches in or the not so deep pipe against the footings. Maybe some experts may want to comment.

Weep holes and a porous strip between foundation wall and basement floor can also be used with conventional drain pipes.


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Thanks AllanJ, your modified cross section showing the location of the two systems is super helpful and that is exactly where the schedule 40 drain tile will be placed (and the gravel will be extended down and surround the pipe)... The flashing will direct the water from the walls down as well... Thanks again!
I am getting quotes for the same type systems. I currently only get water in one corner and am unsure whetehr to have just a sump pit put there or have a system with watergaurd or pipe put in. For me I am looking at about 22' of tile. Are you seeing much difference in price with the two systems? It seems both would work for you.
$1400 more expensive for the traditional drain tile as opposed to the waterguard... It started off almost double the price but they kept working on getting it down. Does anyone have any thoughts on saw cutting a slab as opposed to jack hammering it? I'm was hoping to find someone who worked in the trade who has done this sort of thing multiple times and understands first-hand what the better approach is but any feedback from anybody who has had this done or is considering having it done is appreciated... Thanks...
Also mic575... Make sure you are handling the water around that corner of your house as best you can... If you can extend your downspouts further away from your foundation it sometimes does just enough in removing the load off of your basement wall and sump...
we do both & make more $$ on the bsmt sys method however, if i had to do this work in our home, i'd pick conventional any day of the wk :yes:

the 'flashing' is a cast hdpe dimple board (eg - miradrain) which bsmt sys has incorporated into the extrusion,,, never locate the collection pipe below the footer otherwise a condition known as 'scour' may develop

yes, 'a good slope' is preferred altho wtr will still seek its own level as the bsmt sys requires,,, if you need more slope due to excessive wtr, reconsider staying in the house :laughing: the pump won't turn on til the wtr's high in the sump :no: IF you have a masonary block wall, it is essential to install drain holes into EACH cell AND web,,, not sure what a 'porous strip' is as we use miradrain (the hdpe stuff) to PREVENT porosity

my knowledge/expertise comes from doing this work for 39yrs,,, i still believe in belt AND suspenders approach, too,,, good luck !
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