[morrison49th]

Hello,

I'm doing a remodel and when we pulled off the drywall to expose the studs, on the exterior wall of the house we saw a few (abandoned?) wasp nests and we can see the outside air through unsealed gaps between the beams and the walls.

So should we take this opportunity to seal these up with insulation. What insulation and how? Should this of been done originally when the house was built. Will this help with our heating costs? What about preventing pesky bugs getting into the walls?

Further, I spend 300-500 USD heating this mid 1970s small ~2000 sqft house in the winter months (electric + heat pump). I have a large 2 story open space on the front side of the house which is mostly windows (double glazed aluminium frame). How can I reduce my heating costs?


http://imgur.com/NLMfKCl


http://imgur.com/B8YDvQZ

 

[Windows on Wash]

That lower gap is probably gushing conditioned air out of the home if it is open to the interior.

I would be careful about what you caulk and seal until you know how and where the water is draining through those boards.

Rigid foam is going to be useful here to seal up some bypasses but I would sure to cover the exposed foam on both the inside and outside.

Perhaps a certified energy audit is in order here given your heating bills. That or at least get a blower door test done by somebody that knows their craft.

 

[tstex]

First, those are not wasp nests; they are mud-dauber nests. they are not aggressive either.

Next, were do you live? add your city/state...this provides a perspective of what you face each winter.

Finally, maybe WOW can determine your issue from the 2 pic's, but take two more pic's from further back so one can see the full perspective. That would apply to both inside and outside. we have the 2 close-ups which are needed too

 

[morrison49th]

EDIT 1: Eastside of the greater Seattle area, WA

So once we put the drywall back up there wont be any open to the interior, so cold air shouldn't be gushing out. Regardless, it still feel it makes my conditioned air conduct out faster.

Rigid foam is what I had in mind (for insulation). It'll be covered by drywall on the inside, but for the exterior what do I need to worry about. I'll try and keep it under the roof's shadow, but what happens if the rigid foam I get from home depot gets wet?

Here is another picture showing the airgap visible from where the wall meets the roof:

http://imgur.com/W5qitpG


In another part of the house we were talking some wall paper down on wall that forms the perimeter of the house, found a big wasps nest (abandoned). I cut out part of the drywall to remove it. Not nice, so I want to seal up any potential entrances for wasps when I can (like now in the part of the house where we have stripped back to the studs)

EDIT 2: Here is the wasp nest I removed in the other part of the house: http://imgur.com/NjtVE9X


EDIT 3: For tstex. Here are your pictures:

http://imgur.com/vsS2V81
http://imgur.com/tNejJQZ

Not sure who WOW are.

 

[Bud9051]

Hi morrison, not sure where your are located, related to climate.
Fiberglass insulation is what they use in air filters so does not do a great job at air sealing. Where possible, I like to use a caulking as it provides a more secure barrier to both air flow and bugs.

With modern energy efficient construction, they seal everything they can. With a remodel you can do what you can get to. Not sure what water issue WoW is referring to. I'll add an air sealing guide list below.

In some locations there are programs to provide low cost energy audits. Even at the regular price they will save more than they cost.

https://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/bldrs_lenders_raters/downloads/TBC_Guide_062507.pdf

Bud

LOL you slipped that edit in while I was typing

 

[morrison49th]

First, those are not wasp nests; they are mud-dauber nests. they are not aggressive either.

Next, were do you live? add your city/state...this provides a perspective of what you face each winter.

Finally, maybe WOW can determine your issue from the 2 pic's, but take two more pic's from further back so one can see the full perspective. That would apply to both inside and outside. we have the 2 close-ups which are needed too

Edited my post above to include pictures

http://imgur.com/vsS2V81
http://imgur.com/tNejJQZ

 

[morrison49th]

Hi morrison, not sure where your are located, related to climate.
Fiberglass insulation is what they use in air filters so does not do a great job at air sealing. Where possible, I like to use a caulking as it provides a more secure barrier to both air flow and bugs.

With modern energy efficient construction, they seal everything they can. With a remodel you can do what you can get to. Not sure what water issue WoW is referring to. I'll add an air sealing guide list below.

In some locations there are programs to provide low cost energy audits. Even at the regular price they will save more than they cost.

https://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/bldrs_lenders_raters/downloads/TBC_Guide_062507.pdf

Bud

LOL you slipped that edit in while I was typing

I've seen an energy audit for 400 USD on angies list. Would you say that's a fair price?

 

[tstex]

Ok, the latter pic is a wasp nest and they are aggressive...you definitely want to seal these areas for sure.

I would seal w a good caulk inside where it's more accessible, but since I cannot see anything from the outside [soffit area], I am not sure how accessible that is, but you really want to keep those wasps out from the outside first. If they get inside, they can go down too, and some of them can bore holes in wood. I would caulk the outside of those gaps...nothing wrong w a little overkill here and doing it on both side, as long as those gaps are the equivalent to soffit ventilation for lower baffles or the like.

Per the energy audit, put it this way. $400 over the next 10 yrs is 10x365 = 3650days/$400 = 9 cents per day. Since you have your wall open, the auditor can give you a candid opinion before you re-sheetrock. What you do or do not perform at this time will have an impact on your energy costs and peace of mind for many yrs to come...I would hire them as long as they are a reputable company and they have a good record. I would also specify your exact problem(s) and ask what type of report you will receive. I would also ask for a couple sample reports too.

Once you seal the wall up, your options are all from the outside. I would also have them check out the R-Rating of your insulation along w how everything else is constructed...

 

[Bud9051]

I know there are many good energy auditors in your area but cannot say for sure if the one you are looking at is one of them. I prefer independent auditors that are not trying to sell their insulation services, but that doesn't mean the full service ones are bad. Price is what I would expect.

Bud

 

[Windows on Wash]

WoW is me...

The drainage I was referring to was on the exterior of the home where the wall meets the deck.

Do you have a picture of the exterior in that area?

$400 is fine for an audit. By the time you do all the paperwork and set up, they aren't cheap and aren't money makers for any stretch of the imagination.

 

[Gary in WA]

The deck boards (T&G 2x6) are the decking on the beams with 2x2 2' on center running rake with 1-1/2" rigid foam board between, with plywood (1/2" on top), tar paper and then usually asphalt shingles... built a few, popular in the '70's. Air seal the gaps under the boards with backer rod/caulk, insulate with FG, ADA the drywall. Then add caulking from the exterior against more backer-rod/caulk, they left off the rubber seal under the boards...

Gary

 

[Gary in WA]

The ends of your roof deck boards should have a fascia covering them (with plywood/drip cap covering), so you cannot see daylight from inside... pic. would help.

With the air gaps sealed, the next big energy wasters are the solid timber beams holding up the decking. With any cantilever out carrying the roof overhang- they are heated inside and cooled outside, vice versa in limited really hot weather. You could add foamboard/siding to the first 12" closest to building to reduce the bridging greatly. Thermal bridges (porch beams similar to roof beams), Photo #7; http://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-005-a-bridge-too-far
As solid wood (Douglas-Fir) has an R-1,25 per inch, in your 4x top plate/studs/bottom plate 3-1/2" wall framing is maybe R-4.5, not as even much as the older black paper faced FG at R-11 (with inherent convective loops). The newer R-13 is a medium density FG without convective loops; http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/biggest-loser-fiberglass-insulation-90438/

If you add foamboard against the wall sheathing, the inside face will run much cooler and if wet from exterior, take a long time to dry. A better solution is adding 1/2" XPS (0.5 perms- same as asphalt face paper on FG- takes place of vapor barrier requirement) on the inside face of the studs/plates to stop thermal bridging AND still leave the wood studs to handle any incidental moisture (1k times more moisture storage than air space alone). That would cover the 19% framing factor loss of R-value for the whole wall, pp. 12, 13/91; http://buildingscience.com/sites/de...df/RR-1014_High-R_Walls_Pacific_Northwest.pdf

Or cellulose in cavity with strips of XPS on the studs for thermal bridging breaks. Or FB on sheathing, FG compressed batt or not, with XPS strips leaving the cavity moisture controlled by HVAC unit, as said.

Gary