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Discussion Starter #41
1). Insulating Rim Joists. I found R10 2" thick rigid insulation, that seems to be the correct one for this job. along with spray foam to insulating around the grooves of the insulation. Do I install the insulation with adhesive or screws?
Yes. This is a great start and you can just use a dab of adhesive from a caulk gun to attach the foam. Just use one meant for foam as some of the construction adhesives will melt the foam.

2). Install insulated exterior door (with pressure treated wood frame) in entry way to prevent heat escape from bilco doors.
This will make a huge difference in stopping the cold air coming in. It's also a real security upgrade.

3). Replace old single pane windows with new double pane. Any specific windows? or just any double pane that will fit in the space?
This one is a little more debatable if you consider the cost vs return. You can get a similar effect by just sealing a little better around the window or adding another layer to act similarly to a storm window. I've seen those hair dryer shrink plastics used or plexi if you don't have any need for egress. They also make snap in storms that go on the inside. That could work well here if you can get a good seal around the edges.
Hey guys before I start any of this insulation work do you think I should have a sump pump installed to deal with the moisture? Right now I have no moisture controls in the basement other than a dehumidifier.

Thanks
 

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A sump pit and pump is always a good addition even in a seemingly dry basement, water comes from sources other than through the floors and foundation. Just a few that I have had to deal with:
Water pipes breaking, water pipe joints letting go, frozen and burst water pipes, washing machine leaks, washing machine hoses, showers overflowing, sinks overflowing, leaks in the roof, wind/rain/broken window. Fortunately none were major or had a good drain in place.

If you install a sump pit review the methods used when Radon mitigation is involved.

Bud
 

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Discussion Starter #43
A sump pit and pump is always a good addition even in a seemingly dry basement, water comes from sources other than through the floors and foundation. Just a few that I have had to deal with:
Water pipes breaking, water pipe joints letting go, frozen and burst water pipes, washing machine leaks, washing machine hoses, showers overflowing, sinks overflowing, leaks in the roof, wind/rain/broken window. Fortunately none were major or had a good drain in place.

If you install a sump pit review the methods used when Radon mitigation is involved.

Bud
Thanks bud.

Do you think I should dry-lok my walls before putting on the rigid insulation? The walls already had a coat of dry-lok but over the years they started to peel and chip and I was wondering if it would be a good idea to seal the walls before installing the insulation.

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Drylock when applied directly to a clean concrete surface is a water barrier but not a vapor barrier, which is fine as the rigid foam is the same, a vapor retarder. Allowing a small amount of drying to the inside is good and easily handled along with conditioning the inside air. Adding a second coat to an old layer of dry-lokl, my guess is it will not work well as designed. Thus save your money for other improvements. Now, all of this is mute if you have a water issue, actual water leaking in. If so you may need to rethink how those wall built.

Bud
 
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Drylock when applied directly to a clean concrete surface is a water barrier but not a vapor barrier, which is fine as the rigid foam is the same, a vapor retarder. Allowing a small amount of drying to the inside is good and easily handled along with conditioning the inside air. Adding a second coat to an old layer of dry-lokl, my guess is it will not work well as designed. Thus save your money for other improvements. Now, all of this is mute if you have a water issue, actual water leaking in. If so you may need to rethink how those wall built.

Bud
We don't do bilco doors so we always have a landing outside the door with drainage. How would you deal with sealing a door threshold with out dealing with water? I guess that was your dog house suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Drylock when applied directly to a clean concrete surface is a water barrier but not a vapor barrier, which is fine as the rigid foam is the same, a vapor retarder. Allowing a small amount of drying to the inside is good and easily handled along with conditioning the inside air. Adding a second coat to an old layer of dry-lokl, my guess is it will not work well as designed. Thus save your money for other improvements. Now, all of this is mute if you have a water issue, actual water leaking in. If so you may need to rethink how those wall built.

Bud
We don't do bilco doors so we always have a landing outside the door with drainage. How would you deal with sealing a door threshold with out dealing with water? I guess that was your dog house suggestion.
Outside of my bilco doors is a new patio that was put in last year. The patio slopes away from the bilco door and the house on all sides. I think the rain is coming in through the bilco door itself which I guess is where the doghouse suggestion came in. Unfortunately that is a no no aesthetically speaking. Unless we can find something visually appealing
 

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Outside of my bilco doors is a new patio that was put in last year. The patio slopes away from the bilco door and the house on all sides. I think the rain is coming in through the bilco door itself which I guess is where the doghouse suggestion came in. Unfortunately that is a no no aesthetically speaking. Unless we can find something visually appealing
Can you take a few shots of the door from the outside. I have an Idea for drainage but a last resort deal.
 

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Hi Dee,
I often like to tag my searches with "pictures" at the end, probably says something about me. But here's some eye candy, search "How to cover a Bilco door pictures" and then click more images. Lots of ideas.

Bud
 
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