[tucker0104]

I am having a real bad condensation problem in my metal building. I continually have water coming out of my boat and that is bad. It is a 25x30 metal building with a metal fram ever 3 foot with metal panels screwed in to it. What would be the easiest/cheapest way to insulate it? I am not worried about keeping the heat from my fireplace in but I am wanting to cut down on the condensation. THanks for the help.

 

[concretemasonry]

You are suffering from the "thermal short circuiting" caused the the steel beams, columns, trusses and girts. They tranfer the temperatuer difference quickly and the interior surfaces will always be much,much colder than all other surfaces and the interior air will condense and be released. To avoid filling he boat with water, eliminate the humidity and drop the temperature and provide some ventilation or put poly over it.

Insulating will do little unless it covers/protect the steel surfaces since that is where the water comes from and drips down.

I stored my boat for winters is an unheated, leaky wrinkled tin building and had no moisture problems. - It was big outboard but it could be run and drained in case of freezing.

Dick

 

[Windows on Wash]

+1

No easy or cheap way here.

If you are going to heat it, you are going to introduce more than tolerable amounts of humidity into the space than the thermal bridging of the steel can stave off.

Best way (albeit most expensive) is to spray foam it.

 

[tucker0104]

How much does it cost to spray foam a 30Lx25WX12H building?

 

[Windows on Wash]

Couldn't tell you off the top of my head and pricing is somewhat regional on many of these items.

Best thing to do would be to get several quotes.

Be sure to ask about thermal and ignition barriers as well.

 

[tucker0104]

Just looking for a number. $500 or $5000

 

[jklingel]

years ago it was several dollars/sf up here, 2" thick. "several" being about $3.50, if i recall. call a few places and let us know; i bet it is around $2.50/sf for 2" thick.

 

[tucker0104]

I doubt I would need 2" thick to fix a condensation problem.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Minimum thickness you will need for proper vapor permeance resistance is 2" of closed cell.

 

[jklingel]

tuck: i am well aware of how much it hurts to spend money. trust me; i'm half scottish! however, there is no sense in owning a building and not taking care of it. rebuilding one ain't cheap, either. close your eyes and dig out the cash; it only hurts once, and you'll have a good, warmer building for a long time. if nothing else, the resale value will be improved, and you can recoupe some of your money then..... or your kids will.... cheers.