[hanfordbill]

I have a 1901 Victorian located in the San Joaquin valley of California and slowly I'm removing the lathe and plaster and redoing everything from new electrical to plumbing. While the walls are open I'm putting in fire blocking to my balloon framed home and I also want t insulation. My question is if I need to use tyvek paper and if so which way does face and do I do it only in between wall studs? Or wrap studs too. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Not really. The Tyvek will help with keep the insulation less friable and help with the air barrier.

You don't need it though. Be sure to blocker everything off like you are doing and seal everything that you can to make it as air tight as possible.

 

[hanfordbill]

Thanks.

So would I put wrap, tyvek printed side facing to the exterior and tack it to the wall studs, then place my insulation, then my drywall? Or would it just be simpler to get insulation batts already with a vapor barrier.

Here we get lots of fog during the winter and from late dec thru feb it gets below 30 at night and high 40s low 50s during day. Our cars always have lots of moisture on windshield. Just trying to keep my walls from sweating too much.

Oh, I have redwood ship board siding.

 

[joecaption]

If there's no sheathing and just siding attached to the studs I would if it was mine.
I'd also add fire blocking at the top and bottom of the wall.

 

[joecaption]

Does not matter which way it faces.
House wrap will still let the house breath, will only keep out beads of water, but will stop air from leaking in from any gaps in the siding.

 

[hanfordbill]

If there's no sheathing and just siding attached to the studs I would if it was mine.
I'd also add fire blocking at the top and bottom of the wall.

Thanks for the quick feedback.

Would I wrap the studs too and staple paper to the studs and then tape the seams? Followed by my r19 insulation batts then drywall.

 

[Gary in WA]

I merged your two threads with the same question.


The paper facing on insulation is a vapor retarder, not required for your location, check with local AHJ. I say this because science backs it up; you are in Zone 3; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...heet-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/

Yet CA has it's own Energy Code, depends on location; http://www.energy.ca.gov/maps/renewable/building_climate_zones.html

Under the CA Code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/st/ca/st/b1900v07/st_ca_st_b1900v07_subch8_sec001.htm

The Tyvek can be an air barrier (if perfectly air sealed around the edges/complete perimeter) and weather resistant barrier. Be aware, with a wood siding right after a rain on the sunny side, you could easily get solar gain, wetting the siding back-side and HW. As the moisture wicks to the housewrap and drains down -- wetting the wood sill plate unless you installed the HW; lapping over bottom plate by removing the bottom siding course first (on a slab). This would be similar to proper installation, minus the inset attachment rather than exterior faces of studs.

Gary

 

[Windows on Wash]

+1

Can you post up a picture of the interior wall?

Depending on what you have got, you can create some unintended issues.

 

[hanfordbill]

Here is exterior wall.

 

[Nailbags]

Thanks.

So would I put wrap, tyvek printed side facing to the exterior and tack it to the wall studs, then place my insulation, then my drywall? Or would it just be simpler to get insulation batts already with a vapor barrier.

Here we get lots of fog during the winter and from late dec thru feb it gets below 30 at night and high 40s low 50s during day. Our cars always have lots of moisture on windshield. Just trying to keep my walls from sweating too much.

Oh, I have redwood ship board siding.

the tyvex goes on the out side of the home between the sheething and siding!

 

[Windows on Wash]

View attachment 63216

Here is exterior wall.

Good picture. Do you see moisture infiltration anywhere?

Can you provide a picture of the exterior.

The cut and cobble method would probably work here but you need to know if there is any leaks first before you potentially change how the wall can dry.

the tyvex goes on the out side of the home between the sheething and siding!

The original poster was thinking of it in terms of an air barrier.