[The Jeep Driver]

I took the carpet out of the bedrooms, and laid a floating laminate wood floor. How do I reinstall the folding closet doors? Specically how do I attach the track to the floor? I think if the screws secure the laminate to the subfloor it could lead to gapping as the boards expand and contract.

 

[Yodaman]

I think I would use short screws and not go into the sub. Cutting the float and anchoring to the sub directly would work good but probably look bad. What is the distance across the floor to the apposing wall. And how much distance on either side of the closet. And is there a pad under the floor, floor thickness?

 

[The Jeep Driver]

I think I would use short screws and not go into the sub.

I don't think short screws would hold the doors because...

And is there a pad under the floor, floor thickness?

...the laminate is only 5/16" (8 mm) thick. There is a heavy pad as well, I don't remember the thickness of it.

What is the distance across the floor to the apposing wall.

12 ft.

And how much distance on either side of the closet.

There are 2 closets (4 ft. each door) and the entry door (28") on that wall... does that answer what you were asking?

 

[The Jeep Driver]

Will I have to drill pilot holes through the laminate flooring and into the subfloor, then drill a larger hole only through the laminate?

 

[Yodaman]

yes help full. Do we have according folding or bifold, 2 panel on each side hinged each side? Reason I ask do we need to attach the base track?

If we need the track, we need to attach it with standoffs (spacers or washers) to prevent us from anchoring the floater. Obviously will need a clearance hole or slot for the standoff. My first mat'l choice for making a standoff spacer would be PVC

Have you considered a french door setup?

 

[joecaption]

Sorry, really bad suggestion.
There should have been a transition strip in the middle of the door opening.

 

[Yodaman]

Not ideal but a workable solution from where we are at. Maybe its not too late to pull up from the closet to the doorway and install a transition pc. If not, will need to cut in place either way.

 

[The Jeep Driver]

No transitions at all, the floor runs continuous through 3 rooms and a hallway.

The doors are bi-fold.

 

[Yodaman]

So w/bifolds hinged on each side are we certain that we need the bottom track?

"No transitions at all, the floor runs continuous through 3 rooms and a hallway."

What is the longest continuous run? Glue your seams? Long runs can pull seams apart with expansion/contraction

 

[The Jeep Driver]

So w/bifolds hinged on each side are we certain that we need the bottom track?

Yes, these need the bottom track. Can't find a make/model on them.

"No transitions at all, the floor runs continuous through 3 rooms and a hallway."

What is the longest continuous run? Glue your seams? Long runs can pull seams apart with expansion/contraction

Off-hand I don't know the length, but it's not long enough to worry about separation due to length.

 

[Yodaman]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Zamma-Gl...Length-Laminate-T-Molding-013221634/204491123

I think Joe is referring to a pc like this or similar to, This can be fastened directly to the sub while stilling allowing the floor to float. And will give you a surface to mount your track on.

 

[rjniles]

The bifold bottom brackets I have seen are L shaped, attach it to the jamb and not the floor.

 

[rusty baker]

Off-hand I don't know the length, but it's not long enough to worry about separation due to length.

Less than 35 feet?

 

[The Jeep Driver]

The bifold bottom brackets I have seen are L shaped, attach it to the jamb and not the floor.

I know the style you mean, these have a track at the top and the bottom. They are mirrored, I am guessing the weight makes it necessary to have the track and not the L brackets.

Less than 35 feet?

Yes, 30 ft.

There is nothing wrong/incorrect with the floor install itself. Eliminating transitions makes for a "smoother" or "more flowing" look.

I installed the tracks using the method I mentioned below; marked the locations of the tracks screw holes, drilled pilot holes, then set a depth-stop on a larger bit to make a expansion "gap" around the screws. The track can't move, but the laminate can still expand/contact as needed.

 

[rusty baker]

"Eliminating transitions makes for a "smoother" or "more flowing" look."


That's true, but it can also cause the laminate to buckle.