Installed a Transfer Switch... Will this pass code ???

3005 Views 21 Replies 12 Participants Last post by deverson, Jan 27, 2013

Durkis007

Discussion Starter · Jan 5, 2013

Hi All..

Ive read the forum for a while. But this will be my first post.

With the recent passing of sandy, and having electrical cords all over the place with the generator, I decided to install a transfer switch. I tried to get a professional in, but could only get one guy to actually show let alone give a call back and he wanted 1200 for the labor !!

Anyways... So far I flush mounted the Gen-Tran switch next to the service panel. I initially thought the knock outs on the two panels would line up, but they didn't. I fear that I created a problem that wont pass inspection.

As you can see in the photos I ran a piece of conduit through the stud between the two panels, but its not pretty.

I did apply for a permit with the building department, so this will be inspected.

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redman88

· #2 · Jan 5, 2013

my gut says no. but i am no electrician

kbsparky

· #3 · Jan 5, 2013

Looks like a hack job. My gut says the inspector won't go for this.

"Conduits shall be properly terminated into the enclosures...."

Reactions: 4

NJMarine

· #4 · Jan 5, 2013

kbsparky said:
Looks like a hack job. My gut says the inspector won't go for this.

"Conduits shall be properly terminated into the enclosures...."

I agree.
Where are you located that only 1 Electrician would get back to you.
Down by me there does not seem to be that issue.

Reactions: 1

k_buz

· #5 · Jan 5, 2013

It would fail without question in my parts.

AllanJ

· #6 · Jan 5, 2013 (Edited)

How did you get such a ragged hole in the side of the breaker panel?

Use a nipple (not the plumbing kind) threaded on both ends rather than that piece of conduit. Unmount and move the transfer switch box a tad so the nipple fits.

k_buz

· #7 · Jan 5, 2013 (Edited)

Personally, I would run a piece of 6/3 NM. Take out the sub and close the holes you are currently using for the conduit. Then knock out a 3/4 KO. Use a piece of 6/3 NM (edit: with listed connectors)

I would be interested in seeing a better picture of the subpanel as it appears to be that you are landing the grounds on the neutral bar.

busman

· #8 · Jan 5, 2013

Hack job times ten. What did you cut the hole in the main panel with, your teeth? That's not gonna be an easy fix without a slug buster.

Mark

Auger01

· #9 · Jan 5, 2013

Square D makes a mighty fine interlock kit:

http://members.rennlist.org/warren/SQDinterlockkit.pdf

deverson

· #10 · Jan 5, 2013 (Edited)

This has no chance of passing a with a poor inspector let alone a decent one. Very hack!

Durkis007

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 5, 2013

Okay okay... I didnt say it was a pretty job. LOL

But ive been thinking about this all day, after reading your posts.

First I know I need to close up the mess I created on the main panel side.

Can I use a square piece of sheet metal and screw it into the panel? then mark with a pencil from the switch side and drill a clean hole in the sheet metal ?

I think AllanJ has a good idea using a threaded sleeve and tightening it on both sides sounds like a good idea?

Side bar... We are located in ocean county by the shore, and all the electricians have been super busy with jobs located on the barrier islands with all the flood damage.

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kbsparky

· #12 · Jan 5, 2013

I have used blank cover plates to "repair" such damages to panel box enclosures in the past. I'd try using the 4" octagon blank plates, which may fit without having to cut them down first.

You can get them at most hardware or home-horror stores for under a buck a piece.

A rigid pipe nipple with lock rings on both sides of each enclosure and insulating bushings would make this installation much more palatable.

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NJMarine

· #13 · Jan 6, 2013

You might have go out of ocean county, but I know there some electricians in Monmouth county that could probably help. You do not have an email in your profile, so I could not contact you directly.

troubleseeker

· #14 · Jan 6, 2013

I'm not a licensed electrician, but that will be a "NO", in capital letters. You can probably save yourself by slipping a proper length threaded nipple through there, with pvc anti chaffe collars screwed on the ends. I'd try to "dress up" the panel penetration that you chewed your way through with a screwdriver or chisel with a bead or 2 of gray or silver silicone.

wrooster

· #15 · Jan 8, 2013

troubleseeker said:
I'd try to "dress up" the panel penetration that you chewed your way through with a screwdriver or chisel with a bead or 2 of gray or silver silicone.

Uggghh. That will look worse and attract more unwanted attention from the inspector in terms of suitability for application inside a service disconnect panel. Plus, out-gassing of the silicone as it cures is no friend to electrical contacts.

Wrooster

Auger01

· #16 · Jan 9, 2013

That is an easy fix. Put reducing washers a.k.a. chinese money in there to cover up the chewed up part.

Durkis007

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jan 23, 2013

UPDATE with PICS

Hey Everyone.....

I would like to thanks kbsparky especially for suggesting the octagon blank plate. I finally got around to making the modifications to my mess. I purchased a nice hole saw set to make a perfect cut. I should have done that in the first place, well you cant cry over spilt milk...

Ok.. So here are some pics of the fix... let me know what you think.

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k_buz

· #18 · Jan 23, 2013

Much better, but the locknuts are on backwards.

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Durkis007

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 23, 2013

Thanks KBuz.... Will make that change before I do the wiring.

rrolleston

· #20 · Jan 23, 2013

Looks great once you switch the lock nuts like kbuz said. Everyone makes mistakes and we never stop learning. Hopefully you will post some pictures when you are done.

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